Fashion Editor at Large

SHOW & TELL: A BIT OF SKIRT FOR SS12

2012-01-30T18:04:00.001Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

One of the funny things about being a fashion journalist/consultant is that sometimes you have to do and say the kind of vacuous things that fashion people in the movies say. Such as "It's all about skirts." Which is a bit weird/sad/makes you wonder what all that eduction was for.

I said "It's all about skirts" a lot last October and November when I was talking to interested parties about what fresh new trends were emerging after the catwalk collections in New York, London, Milan and Pareee. Now, responding by saying "skirts" might sound a bit stupid to you. You might be thinking "women wear skirts all the time. Skirts are an everyday fashion item." That is not an unreasonable thought.

You'd be surprised though. The retailers I work with are constantly bemoaning the poor sales racked up in the skirt category. So I say "Its all about skirts," and they say "but skirts don't sell!" The blockbuster categories are pretty much always dresses, casual trousers, and tops. Generic yes, but within that percentages go up and down with fashion. Dresses dominated for most of the last five years. Then tops, or rather blouses stormed in and became a key wardrobe item under the noses of most fashion retailers who then all quickly caught up.

The thing that happened with blouses is about to happen with skirts, especially little flared numbers shaped like little ding-dong bells. Over the next few months they are going to seem to become very, very important items; something fresh and different to wear with your blouse or luxed-up T-shirt. A girly change from skinny pastel jeans or cool sports pants. In short the must-have wardrobe update for the warmer months of the year.

A lovely blouse and skirt from Prada SS12

It was something Miuccia Prada said after her fantastic Spring 2012 show that stuck on my mind. "There are basically no dresses, [in the collection], its all separates combined in a realistic way," she told Vogue.com. Normally her post-show pronouncements are more Confucious like; sage and cryptic. This one was instructive. It signalled the end of her love affair with dresses, and quite poissibly ours too, for the time being.

If the most influential woman in world fashion has done away in dresses in favour of pretty skirts and tops, who are we to argue? Without further ado I'd like to show you the best ones from the catwalk for this Spring. I'll start with my absolute favourite one now, this beautiful Herve Leger bell skirt will last for ever, and its the sort of piece that will give new life to the rest of your wardrobe. The high street are catching up, but slowly.

Herve Leger skirt from Net-a-Porter

Carven SS12

Nina Ricci by Peter Copping SS12

Acne Studio SS12

Jason Wu SS12

Louis Vuitton SS12

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 23rd- 27th JANUARY

2012-01-27T16:53:00.004Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

The world of fashion is racing ahead at full throttle right now; menswear and couture are just done and February is just around the corner which means we're on countdown to the big four fashion weeks. And that all means there's plenty of fashion news to let you know about...

E.Tautz- one to watch at the menswear shows (image from sharpened lead.com)

News from the British Fashion Council: London is to have its very own mini menswear fashion week. The June dates precede the established shows in Milan and Paris. The change also makes commercial sense because it ties into the calendar for buyers. We're glad to see menswear getting its own moment in the spotlight rather than seeming like an afterthought to womenswear (until now, London Fashion Week had a men's day tagged on the end). It makes perfect sense too; London being the home of Savile Row- the ultimate menswear shopping destination.

Michelle Obama at this week's State of the Union address (image from guardian.co,uk)

At this week's State of the Union address, Michelle Obama continued her rather impressive track record on occasion appropriate dressing with a Barbara Tfank sapphire blue dress. However, one blogger on the French Elle website took the opportunity to write an article which argued that the Obamas have enabled black style to move from 'street wear' to 'chic'. Naturally, a row ensued which quite understandably accused the publication of racist leanings. Apparently, the article, which has now been taken down, was 'misinterpreted'. We would just like to point out that Michelle Obama is not the world's first chic black woman. See below, The Supremes, as a starting point.

image from www.sweetlyrics.com

LVMH announced this week that the Celine AW12 show will be scaled back due to Phoebe Philo's pregnancy- she'll be eight months gone by the time of the show on March 4th. Instead, there will probably be a presentation at the same time which is deemed a more manageable task than the full-blown runway affair. Vanessa Friedman at the FT sees this decision as emblematic of a new attitude to designers; 'the Celine move marks a conscious decision to choose the designer over possible marketing returns from the runway pictures'. In a post-Galliano age, designers might finally be recognised as human beings, as well as talented makers of profit earning collections.

Philo's Mum and Dad were at her SS12 show (image from catwalking.com)

Sienna and Savannah Miller have called it a day on their roles as Creative Directors at twenty8twelve, the label they started six years ago and which is named after Sienna's birthday. It looks like the sisters probably haven't had too much to do with the design process for some time, even though Savannah is highly qualified, having studied at Central St. Martins. Nish Soneji, the Pepe Managing Director which owns the label, told Drapers 'We never intended to be a celebrity brand and we remain confident of our DNA'. Don't expect much change at the London show in a few weeks then.

Sienna and Savannah (www.dirklinder.com)

OUTFIT OF THE WEEK: Miss Piggy in Giles at last night's premiere of the new Muppets film. Giles commented 'She's the biggest diva we've ever worked with'.

Fab! (image from graziadaily.co.uk)

We've noticed some particularly deep and meaningful (ahem, not) comments from the mouths of models this week.. SH*T MODELS SAY

Alice Dellal on Karl Lagerfeld: 'He's so nice. It was nice to be able to talk to him'
Dellal on being in a Chanel shoot: 'It made me feel like a lady'

Helena Christensen on advice she'd give to the models she's just selected: 'I want to say "run as fast as you can'

And the biggest gems from Laura Craik's satirical interview with Kate Moss. On Mango's clothes 'The cut and they’re kind of ... you know ... really well made, and the jeans are ... you know, they’re really well made and the cut, you can wear them a lot ... '

Kate Moss on the Daily Mail's obsession with her: 'I don’t know. ’Cos it’s the Daily Mail? They just get on everyone’s tits, don’t they? I don’t know'

Lady Amanda Harlech (from www.justin-teodoro.blogspot.com)

If you haven't read it already, then can we heartily recommend to you Alex Fury's interview with Lady Amanda Harlech, Creative Consultant at Chanel a.k.a Lagerfeld's right hand woman? It's a brilliant lid lifting on the real role of the 'muse' as Harlech is so often called as well as her quite extraordinary life. Particularly apt for couture week.

Just out: Natalia Vodianova for Stella McCartney. Similar to last season but with pretty flowers this time.

image from wwd.com

The Haute Couture shows are over for another season, not that it matters much for those us not buying. While we can, and do, admire the artisanship, these are collections which only a few of the super-super rich will think about it in an "I want that now" kind of way.

It's easy to feel left out, especially when most of our realities involve the very possible threat of a double dip recession. We shouldn't feel left out. The sad truth is today's Haute Couture is aimed squarely at markets in China and Russia where there is a boom-time economy and fashion is going through a wealth flaunting bling stage. So that yellow shiny long, thigh split dress will never see the light of day again in Europe. In Russia on the other hand....

It is a fact of life that designers now need to straddle all the potential markets from affordable to outrageously expensive. Karl Lagerfeld did that rather nicely this week; he began on Tuesday with his couture show, the next day he launched his affordable, online only collection- available exclusively at Net-a-Porter. Launch events were hosted in London and New York and judging by the huge queues, Karl's mega straddle paid off- they came flocking. Oh, and Chanel have also produced a nail polish in the same clear sky blue which underpinned the couture. Chanel know better than any other brand how to tickle the fancy of all their critics and fans from uppity newspaper fashion editors to young bloggers, and this is what makes it the world's best fashion brand.

Image courtesy of @jimshi809

This is how Karl celebrated, with a party at his place in Paris. Azealia Banks was performing, can you spy Karl? he is filming the whole thing with one of his many iPads. Looks like the indoor smoking ban is NOT being respected at Karl's place.

Whaaat did she say? (from derekblasberg.com)

In other couture news, Jean Paul Gaultier has offended Amy Winehouse's family by staging a 'bad taste' tribute to the singer to showcase his collection. Barber shop singers performed Winehouse tracks and models wore beehives and smoked cigarettes. Mitch Winehouse said that the show 'glamorises some of the more upsetting times of her life'. We agree that the donning of mourning veils at the end of the show was probably a step too far, but then JPG has never been one to play safe. Jean Paul was a huge fan of Amys and recently told FashEd he was devastated when she died, so the homage was done with good intentions. Perhaps just a bit too soon for the Winehouse family. What do you think?

JPG's couture tribute to Amy Winehouse (image from catwalking.com)

After an eight year absence, Versace made a return to the couture schedule, albeit in a scaled down presentation. This is another label which is doing the 'straddle', only last week Donatella's second Versace collection for H&M sold out. Watch Suzy Menkes' interview to get the lowdown on everything Versace...

A few special looks to sum up couture...

Elegant New Look references at Christian Dior by Bill Gaytten

Livening up the clothes with mohicans at Chanel (this will be big in China)

Pastel overdose at Elie Saab

Beautiful Valentino

One for the Russian crowd at Versace (all images from catwalking.com)

LANA DEL REY for JOHNNY BLUEEYES

2012-01-26T16:31:00.003Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

I've been getting Tweets from people thanking me for turning them onto Lana Del Ray, and she is a love at first listen kinda artist. That's certainly how I felt when I heard Video Games for the first time at Christopher Kane's Spring 2012 show, and then even more when I watched her on Jools Holland in October.

The buzz and hype around Lana has been non-stop since around the time of a post I did back in October 2011. Oddly enough the post I refer to above actually caused one of her publicists to call a colleague of mine and meanly shout at her down the phone. Now the story of Lana Del Ray and how she changed her image is part of why she is famous, and her story is not complete without some mention of it. Some journalists exercise their intellectual muscle on the not-so-modern construct of the performer as alter-ego; others "smell a rat" and question authenticity. To my mind the only fact that matters is that Lana is a great artist, and extremely beautiful with it.

As weeks go by, and more images of her appear across media, I'm finding I love her look and styling, when at first it jarred. But, you know, that's the trick of great styling and great fashion collections; if it looks a bit odd at first, or feels jarring to the eye then give it a few months and it will become fabulous.

This is the case with me. I love the way Lana looks like a triple cross between a sultry Hollywood starlet, an angsty gangsta teenager, and a fetish nurse. After deciding I loved her style, I had to find out who was styling her, reasoning I probably knew of or knew the person. I was right! Step forward Johnny Blueeyes! A few years ago I wrote about Johnny in Grazia. He was my NBF for a few weeks, we chatted too much on the phone, and he came into the office especially to give me a T-Shirt he had created for the fashion show of his label House of Blueeyes which Kate Moss had spontaneously jumped up from her seat and modelled in...

Johnny Blueeyes work with Lana Del Ray

Johnny is a true creative and total free spirit. He's as un-corporate as it is possible to be, extremely flamboyant, but also kind and warm and all about the underdog and the marginalised in society. Lady Gaga (who he has worked with - as well as Ana Matronic and Beth Ditto) could have borrowed her marketing spin from him. It makes me happy that he is working with Lana Del Ray; I adore that she chose him. Knowing they work together makes me like her even more as Johnny only works with properly edgy talent.

I wanted to chat with Johnny for this post, but he is on tour with Lana and cannot be contacted. Need to know facts are that he has one of the best vintage collections in London and that Johnny is also the Creative Director of fashion, art and music collective the House of Blueeyes, where he works alongside his fellow designers creating exquisite one-off pieces by special commission.

Hopefully I'll be able to share some of his latest projects with you soon. Meanwhile, I leave you with a couple of Johnny Blueeyes youtube's. One of him and Beth Ditto, the other of him talking to a journalist about his work and ethos.

Heeerrrre's Johnny!

In this film Johnny talks about his creative ethos, and dispenses advise on how to get on in the fashion industry. "Make your own world".

SH*T FASHION GIRLS SAY

2012-01-25T17:30:00.005Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Do you recognise yourself in this?

Or maybe this one is more #totesamaze?

SHOW & TELL: NEOPRENE + SCUBA FOR SS12

2012-01-25T15:12:00.006Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

For Spring even distinctly non-sporty clothes are looking very sporty. The main reason for this - apart from this so-called "Olympics Fever" which I'm not buying into - is designers' increasing use of neoprene, the foamed synthetic rubber initially developed by DuPont in 1930, doubled with the general scuba/surf wear aesthetic adopted by high fashion designers. Last week, a Preen scuba styled tropical floral yellow shift dress dived in and swam straight out of stock from My-Wardrobe.com, and its PR Lauren Stevenson told me today that "scuba" and "neoprene" were within their top five searches on the site this week. This came after my great friend Nadia Jones, herself a fashion designer and the sister of Louis Vuitton's Kim Jones, made me jealous with her black neoprene coat from the No:21 collection by Alessandro Dell'Acqua. Then, I recalled seeing neoprene topped riding boots from Hermes in Paris, a pair of neoprene sandals from Jimmy Choo, the Pierre Hardy colleciton is neoprene heavy and the whole of the McQ Spring collection is scuba inspired...

Jimmy Choo neoprene sandals, £495 Net-a-Porter.com

McQ scuba top £150 Net-a-porter.com

Pierre Hardy neoprene and leather rucksack £1,135 Brownsfashion.com

This all made me think of one of my favourite Spring/Summer 2012 shows by Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos for their Peter Pilotto label at London Fashion Week. After the show I was straight backstage to say congratulations and to mug the designers for a quote or two. Neoprene came up then too, in connection with the designers' special collaboration with former stylist turned swimwear designer and now luxury neoprene expert, Lisa Marie Fernandez. But it wasn't until attending the Starworks London press day a couple of months later that I had a chance to speak to Peter and Lisa Marie in depth about the collection, and their collaboration.

Peter Pilotto with his collection (photo: fashion editor at large)

First, Peter talked me through a holiday he and Christopher had taken in Indonesia that ran the gamut from hiking through jungle for days, and ended up in a fairly swank hotel for the weekend. Upon their return, inspiration was translated into truly exquisite and intricate tropical prints that feel like close-ups of palm leaves and magnified jungle details. At a certain point in the collection the florals of the collection go from artistic to cartoon... "we wanted something added to the collection, a surf or scuba element, that toughened up the silhouette and gave it a point of difference. I remembered meeting Lisa Marie, and we took it from there."

The Lisa Marie Fernandez/Peter Pilotto neoprene pieces at London Fashion Week (photo: Jason Lloyd Evans)

When I chatted to New Yorker Lisa-Marie Fernandez, a divine creature with a body that hasn't seen a carbohydrate in years, she was showing her own swimwear collection and as well as sharing her experiences of working on the Peter Pilotto project. First up though, was a discussion on neoprene, a fabric traditionally used in wetsuits, bottle coolers, laptop bags and treasured for its waterproof, creaseproof and protective qualities. Fernandez explained she is working with a new kind of more luxurious fashion-friendly neoprene, and has been teaching the factory workers who normally make wetsuits for surf brands, how to create her swimwear. "It is a huuuuge learning curve for them,"she said half smiling and half grimacing. The designer is definitely onto something, and I think we will seeing a lot more of her in the coming months. None of the individual pieces were available to be photographed, due to them being on an exclusive to one of the Vogues.

The Pilotto/Fernandez collaboration is due to arrive at Matches any day now.. I for one can't wait for the "Farrah" one of Lisa Marie's signature swimsuits in a Pilotto print.

A Lisa Marie Fernandez neoprene bikini (photo: fashion editor at large)

The Farrah swimsuit £315 by Lisa Marie Fernandez on net-a-porter (more stock on its way)

FLY AWAY TO... CHANEL COUTURE

2012-01-24T18:49:00.002Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's a miserable, showery January day here in London. I'm about to face the rain to get home. Oh! How I wish a Chanel jet plane were waiting to whisk me away. Today, lucky fashion editors not only got to be in Paris but were also admitted aboard Karl Lagerfeld's couture flight of fancy; the Grand Palais had been transformed into a very chic aeroplane. It was a leap of the imagination from the sumptuous Maharajah banquet setting of the Pre-Fall collection back in December, to futuristic jet set which only King Karl could have executed. Luckily, some of the attendees were kind enough to share the setting and dresses via Twitter. Here are some of our favourite shots....

The model's exit, from @grazia_live

Before the show, from @telefashion

The Finale from @10and10men

Saskia de Brauw by @grazia_live

Poppy Delevingne's pic of the catwalk

The first look, from @grazia_live

Sam McKnight's backstage shot of Anja Rubik

Karl walks the aisle, from @jessc_m

Cameron Diaz enjoys the show from @jessc_m

From @Grazia_Live

I WANT TO BE A LAURA ASHLEY GIRL...REALLY!

2012-01-23T17:56:00.009Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

What makes a good brand? For me, it is knowing what I am buying into. Often, that means I feel like this brand knows me and wants to dress a girl like me. But it also means that I want to be their girl. It's a two way thing.

In the 70s and 80s, a great swathe of young women wanted to be the Laura Ashley Girl. She was pretty, feminine and spent her days romping through fields with ruddy farm lads. Well, that was the fantasy. My Mum was a Laura Ashley girl; she would buy the fabrics and make dresses herself, mixing and matching the ditsy and overblown florals which everyone recognised a mile off. But she was no country bumpkin; she worked in an office in a big city so Laura Ashley was a 'dreamy escape'. In the same way that fashion now emulates the Mod styles of the 60s every other season, Laura Ashley revived the Edwardian styles, 60 or so years after they had first been popular. The fashion dream built by Laura Ashley coincided with Fleetwood Mac and their seminal Rumours album and a general love of all things sweet, laid back and romantic.

This could be from the 1910s, but it's 1980, by Jane Ashley

With this strong history in mind, it's odd to think that Laura Ashley isn't really on the fashion radar any more, it's where Middle England goes for its curtains. However, The Fashion and Textile Museum in Bermondsey is currently exploring the brand's heyday with a display of Jane Ashley's (eldest daughter of Laura and Bernard Ashley) photographs as part of the museum's Catwalk to Cover exhibition. The small display also coincides with Uniqlo's collaboration with Laura Ashley on a collection of t-shirts printed with designs from the brand's rich archive.

Uniqlo x Laura Ashley tees. Prices start at £8.50, from 6th Feb

Uniqlo have taken prints from the Laura Ashley archive and revived them on tees

All Jane's pictures featured her friends and family, and personified the brand- no mean feat

Jane's photography is beautiful; all soft, overexposed greys. The titles are charming- 'Lucy and Tim in Wales' or 'Dorothy and Robina'. She was enlisted by her parents to experiment with creating photos which they could use in their shops. The results were iconic images which became just as significant, in terms of creating a brand, as the clothes and fabrics sold in the shops. They create a link between what you see on the hanger, on the roll and what you can make of it, what it will do for you. These are not images posed by models who pretend to represent what it means to be a Laura Ashley girl either. They are the Ashleys' friends and family so they really are living the life which inspired everything the store stood for. I went to a reception which was attended by some of those involved in the photos- I loved that they were chatting away in Welsh, laughing and recalling those times. They really lived that life. It made me want to be a Laura Ashley girl.

Pretty florals on a sweet tee are where it's at for Spring, as showcased at Erdem (image from catwalking.com)

This is Lucy and Tim in Wales, by Jane Ashley

For those of us that are curious, this is the right time to rediscover what Laura Ashley is really all
about. The exhibition is a good starter. Uniqlo's t-shirts show the prints off in a great, modern
way. It's a starting point which could see the prints exploited as amazingly as Liberty's archive
is. They should be resurrected. SS12 couldn't be a more perfect moment with tees and florals
being two of the season's most pervasive trends.As usual with Uniqlo's tees, a percentage of
the sales is going to charity (the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees) which
is a huge bonus. I'll be wearing mine with a broderie anglaise skirt for a country
walk this Summer... Now I just need to learn Welsh.

Jane Ashley's photos are on display until 25th February at the Fashion and Textile Museum

The tees will be available at Uniqlo from 6th February

All images, apart from tees, are by Jane Ashley and by kind courtesy of the family archives.

FASHION STAPLES: MY-WARDROBE SS12

2012-01-22T22:33:00.000Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Myself and the Fashion Junior at Large moved all of our operational data from PC to Mac on Friday afternoon. By lunchtime today most of my data had been repatriated with me via the Cloud onto this very lovely, but still mysterious Macbook Pro. Using this will be a revelation, but I may be some time.

I've been feeling somewhat fragile today following a bacchanalian feast last night at Britain's most famous three Michelin starred restaurant, The Fat Duck of Bray, owned and run by the food genius Heston Blumenthal. I'm not sure whether we had a choice or not, but we had the 18 course taster menu, to which Heston kindly added a few extra courses as treats because he and my other half have crossed paths through work. By the time the 21st course was in front of us, I had begun to empathise with how a fattened duck might feel.

I've been planning on introducing FEAL's Fashion Staples for a while. Successful shopping is about knowing what to buy and when/where to buy it. It is January 22nd, and elsewhere in fashion the menswear shows in Paris are showcasing clothes for next winter, while the Haute Couture is displaying artistry we can only gawp at in wonder and never buy unless we have £30,000 + to spare. Far more pressing now is what us fashion-loving women should be buying now that feels fashion-right. If you are nowhere near getting a grip on the new Spring trends - and why would you, it is still the depths of winter - then let me show you the way.

I flicked through quite a few New-In pages online before I settled on My-Wardrobe's being the best starting point for FEALS's Fashion Staples SS12. The ethos of My-Wardrobe.com is everyday luxury, and thats what a decent style staple need to be at its core.

FEAL STYLE STAPLES: MY-WARDROBE.COM 22/1/12

1. Acne shoes, £368
These shoes will lift an outfit from average to high fashion in the length of time it takes to put them on. The colour is perfectly fitting for spring and the shoes are not so bonkers that they can't be passed off as a jazzy pump.

2. M Missoni Fit and Flare dress £315

Fit and flare dresses are where the pendulum of everyday fashion is swinging. if you haven't got one yet, you will soon. They are so about-to-be fashionable, I reckon they'll usurp the body-con dress by the end of the year. If you have an arse and thighs, the flared skirt is legend for the obfuscation of said area.

Enjoy as a chic fashion look while you can.

3. Marc by Marc Jacobs paisley slim-leg trousers £295

This shape trouser rocks. They look modern and cool and work with whatever shoe you throw at them. I'd wear them with heels for an evening look or ankle boots and a jumper for day. A true staple, and they're paisley. Right now paisley = cool.

4. Joseph navy V-neck cashmere jumper, £260

Every woman needs one of these. I recommend navy. All shades of blue are in the colourful spring 2012 spectrum.

5. Carven evening top £180

I am a HUUUGE fan of Carven and adore the work its designer Guillaume Henry. Guy - as he suggest we Brits call him - has taken the Carven business from 0-500 global stockists in only three years. There hasn't been a brand with such a quick rise to prominence since Acne burst onto the scene in 2005. This top is a twist on the T-shirt that is edgy, chic and easy. All the ingredients for a FEAL Fashion Staple.

Which one is your favourite?

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 16th-20th JANUARY

2012-01-20T15:55:00.003Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Happy Almost-Weekend...

This week we start you off with a delightful preview of the award winning documentary about Bill Cunningham the original street style photographer; the film has its British premier on February the first. Bill is a living legend.

"Fashion is the armour to survive the reality of everyday life."

Bill Cunningham

Chanel is off to Japan! Lagerfeld and his team have planned three events as a special treat for their Easternmost fans. In March, there will a winter couture show, a pop-up shop and an exhibition entitled 'The Little Black Jacket'. The exhibition, on for seven weeks, coincides with a book of the same name which Lagerfeld is working on with Carine Roitfeld, showing celebrities and other brand favourites, in their Chanel jackets.

Chanel waves the flag for Japan

More bumper business news from across the retail spectrum this week as Burberry, ASOS and Primark all posted recession defying results. At Burberry, there was a 22% increase in sales with particular strength, unsurprisingly, across Asia. It's the brand's stalwart pieces which are performing best- coats and luggage. While it is well-acknowledged that luxury labels aren't suffering as much as might be expected from the global downturn, word on the high street has been somewhat bleaker; Peacocks was the latest store to go into administration this week. However, Primark and ASOS are proof that the fittest survive. Primark announced a 16% leap in profits for the last quarter while ASOS saw an 18% increase in its share price after profits rose 10%, thanks in the most part to its global reach.

Cara Delevingne and Eddie Redmayne in their trench macs for the SS12 campaign (image from fashiongonerogue.com)

After much wrangling amongst the organisers of the big four fashion weeks, the clash of dates which looked set to overshadow the SS13 season has been resolved. For attendees, this means that fashion month will kick off earlier than usual with the New York shows beginning on September 6th. Steven Kol, CEO at the CFDA rightfully pointed out that 'there's no value for the cities to compete'. So, there will be no choosing between Katrantzou and Gucci, or Pilotto and Versace for those who skip to all four events.

Piero Tosi with director Luchino Visconti and Dirk Bogarde on the set of Death in Venice in 1971 (image from vogue.it)

Louis Vuitton has teamed up with Rome's Centro Sperimentale di Cinematografia (Italian National Film School) to bring the worlds of fashion and film closer together. Over three years, there will be a number of projects to support Italian film and young filmmakers, such as workshops and scholarships. One of the first schemes to get underway will be a costume workshop focusing on 17th century design, with Italian costume designer Piero Tosi acting as a key participant. Like Tods, which is in the process of taking on responsibility to restore the Colosseum, Vuitton has taken it upon itself to contribute private money to protect another integral part of Italian culture, at a time when the public purse cannot stretch to such limits.

Hatmaking at the film school (imae from WWD.com)

On January 24th, a Prada museum will pop-up in Paris for 24 hours. Conceived by Francesco Vezzoli and the AMO Think Tank it could have the potential to create a bit of a 'moment' as its brings together films and sculptures which represent iconic women including the likes of Lady Gaga. The event will kick off with an exclusive dinner and club night before opening up to the public, who will now doubt rock up early to see the invited guests tumbling out. The three museum spaces, historic, contemporary and forgotten, will provide the backdrop for Prada and Vezzoli's message about femininity now. It may sound a bit obscure, but anything with the Mrs Prada stamp on has got to be fab. Talking of Miuccia, she got herself in hot water this week when she appeared to criticise the Met's new exhibit which will compare her with Elsa Schiaparelli. She told WWD:

“It’s too formal; they are focused on similarities, comparing feather with feather, ethnic with ethnic, but they are not taking into consideration that we are talking about two different eras, and that [Schiaparelli and I] are total opposite,” said the designer before her show on Sunday. “I told them, but they don’t care,” she said with a shrug, resigned rather than upset.

A statement was later released by Prada which claimed her comments were 'taken out of context' and that she was 'honored and proud to be taking part in the exhibition'.

Miuccia Prada on the cover of iD in April 2009, designed by Francesco Vezzoli (image from designscene.net)

After last week's quick dip into the sartorial goings-on in the US Presidential election, FEAL's world news radar turns to the Olympics where a row has broken out among the boxing community. The point of contention is whether female contenders should wear shorts or skirts. And it's not just a question of what is the best performing item, it does actually come down to the 'fashion' element. Skirts were first worn so that spectators could differentiate between the boy and girl boxers. Polish and Romanian coaches say that skirts should be worn because they create 'a more womanly impression' and are 'more elegant'. We're not sure that elegance is the first priority of any sportsperson looking to win a title so we're supporting Elizabeth Plank's petition for boxers to able to choose, just like every other girl can!

The Menswear season is in full-swing, moving to Paris yesterday after Milan earlier in the week. At Louis Vuitton, Kim Jones fused Japanese and Parisian influences; the work of illustrator Antonio Lopez was cited by the designer as a starting point. Further along, the Okujun silk spinning was used to create an ivory suit. The technique is UNESCO protected, and only 20cm of yarn can be produced in one day. The Vuitton show also mirrored a wider trend which began in womenswear to use more Asian models on catwalks.

One of the Asian models who walked at Vuitton (image from WWD.com)

Love this high shine parka/anorak, a nod to Japan on the belt (image from WWD.com)

Lanvin is launching its first eyewear collection and has made a video to underline the artisan approach it's taken to the range. Along with De Rigo, Lanvin has applied the same levels of artistry to the glasses as it would to its clothes. While the video may not have the catchiness of the dance of late 2011, it serves to remind us of the level of craft which sets designers like Lanvin apart. The question on everyone's lips, which ones has Alber ordered?

A TALE OF TWO BERLINS

2012-01-20T11:16:00.004Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Lupe Fiasco performs in Berlin (image from flickr)

It's nearing midnight, somewhere in Berlin, and it's drizzling with rain. The taxi pulls up outside what looks like an abandoned courtyard. Once you push through the gates, a crowd can be spotted huddled in the far corner. On the expanse of whitewashed wall above them, 'Vans Party' is projected, the only clue that something vaguely organised might be going on here. There is much confusion about how one gets into this thing, but once inside and wristbanded, you enter a labyrinth of wide corridors, crammed with hip-label and vintage clad boys and girls, beers in hand, chatting over the music coming from somewhere, in the darkness. Off to the left there's a room displaying Vans trainers. Further along, there is a chaotic bar where only waving a white wristband in the face of the guy serving will get you a drink in a timely manner. If you elbow your way through further then you realise where that beat you've been feeling since you entered is coming from. It's a vast warehouse, even fuller than those corridors. Everyone is bopping away to hip hop stars Lupe Fiasco and Mos Def. I sense that by day, lots of the crowd here have been hanging out at Bread and Butter, the huge tradeshow for contemporary and streetwear brands which is on at the moment in the city.

From Livin Cool

Fast forward ten hours or so, and Dorothee Schumacher's AW12 show is well underway in the Mercedes Benz venue at Berlin Fashion Week. The label has 53 stores across Germany and many more across the world. So there is, naturally, nothing niche about the collection. This is stuff which will sell to women across a range of ages and tastes and situatiosn. There are some great trousers with stripes down the the side, or made in silky pyjama fabrics. There are big furry hats, which seem to be an everywoman's version of the one Miuccia Prada showed for AW11.

Schumacher

Later on, the Laurel show, with its sequined, feathered and tasselled party dresses, furry accessories and good coats, confirms my theory; that Berlin Fashion Week, is about the side of Germany we are most used to hearing about, rather than that scene I got a teeny glimpse of last night. It makes complete economic sense. And that is no bad thing at a time when every industry has to show that it can prop itself up. Women from Germany, and further afield, will buy the clothes shown at fashion week. This IS an unusual phenomenon because most of the time, the collections shown during fashion weeks will not be worn by the vast majority of women, they are mere fantasy.

Laurel

Two other labels I saw yesterday, Rena Lange and Kaviar Gauche had more edge. Bridalwear designers, Kaviar Gauche, began with a model/ priestess swinging incense down the catwalk. Smoke billowed around as the collection unfolded- that robe theme continued with swishing gowns in the lighest, and often most transparent, of fabrics- to the glee of the Daily Mail today. The SS12 Under the Sea theme was picked up in sea anenome dresses, which unfortunately fell apart as the model walked. But there were jewel encrusted bodices which gave a luxe element.

Kaviar Gauche

Rena Lange was by far the most colourful show of the day with doses of hot pink and tangerine as well as splashes of bright blue. Print combinations were rather clever. There were still plenty of sure sellers; little tweed suits and work-ready tailoring.

Rena Lange

As I explained before, this was my first visit to Berlin and these are just my impressions of what the German fashion scene is like. Of course, every country and city has its different cultures, you only have to look at East London vs. West London to see that. But in Germany, the separation of the two seems extreme. It's fascinating and perhaps shows how fashion rellects society on a wider level. Germany has a turbulent recent history; it's only been a country as it is now for 20 years or so. It would be stupid to think that there wouldn't be a sociological reaction going on because of that which wasn't refelcted in fashion. The fact that Berlin Fashion Week is sponsored by one of the country's biggest car manufacturers, Mercedes Benz, ties it into that notion of Germany's economic success- it is almost singlehandedly keeping the Eurozone afloat. But then there is this whole other scene going on, which cannot be ignored.

P.S Many thanks to Mercedes-Benz for taking me to Berlin- it'd be fab if you had accessible wi-fi in your lounge so I could have blogged this straight from Berlin yesterday!

A TUMBLE FROM A DAY IN BERLIN:

Discarded flounces from dresses at Kaviar Gauche

Smoking on the Laurel catwalk

Bekketts

Miu Mius for magpies

The Best Dressed FROW-er

Lara Stone, the face of Mercedes-Benz, makes an appearence

A POSTCARD FROM BERLIN

2012-01-18T18:18:00.001Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Hello from Berlin! I arrived an hour or so ago for my first visit here. I won't be here long- just a day of shows at Berlin Fashion Week tomorrow, courtesy of Mercedes Benz- so as tempting as it was to curl up in my room for a pre-dinner nap, I thought it would take the opportunity to see any sights I could while I had some free time.

Luckily, I'm staying very close to the fashion week action which also happens to be right next to one of Berlin's biggest landmarks, the Brandenburg Gate. Before I came, I'd heard a lot about Berlin as a city of art and creativity and partying. While I never doubted those descriptions, it seemed odd to me because Germany is portrayed as so industrial and economically strong. I found it hard to envisage how the capital of a country like that could have such an incongruous reputation.The area I'm staying in feels quite corporate but I expect I may see the other side of the city later tonight. I'm interested to see how German fashion designers approach that dichotomy. I'll admit I'm no expert on the labels I'll be seeing tomorrow but in a way I'm glad that I won't be going with preconceptions. The big four fashion weeks have such solid (if unnecessarily stereotypical identities); London is where new talent grows, New York is easy, sporty and wearable, Milan is glamour and Paris is chic old school. What is Berlin though? I'll see tomorrow.

WHAT I'VE SEEN SO FAR...

Flowers laid in memory of political prisoners

My home tomorrow...

The Brandenburg Gate...

I'm not exactly sure what these Fundus Verkauf are but I think it's to do with a shop selling opera props, amazing!

Apparently these segments of the Berlin Wall are dotted around the city. I love the graffited face on this one outside my hotel.

SHOW & TELL: MEADHAM KIRCHHOFFS HYPER PRETTY SS12

2012-01-17T15:08:00.005Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

At this time of year fashion media people start mobilising towards attending fashion shows. The real die-hards will already be on the road in Milan and Florence at the mens shows, and are about to head to the Paris mens shows followed by the Haute Couture and pre-fall. They will soon be speaking incomprehensible fashion. At FEAL we'll be keeping a close eye on these shows while bringing you all that is exciting, new, interesting and thought-provoking in fashion now.

To kick off our coverage of the Spring/Summer 2012 collections I want to start with our old NEWGEN gang members Edward Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff of Meadham Kirchhoff who are deservedly and swiftly gaining a cult following. I've been following their work since pretty much the beginning of their careers. Their S/S '12 collection of hyper femininity was a social and fashion media triumph which disseminated through the Web and found a home in the hearts of disaffected teenagers and Riot Grrls of the old and new school around the world.

The Riot Grrrl manifesto

Theres a lot of women and girls out there who don't buy into the idea of what a modern woman is supposed to be according to the fashion and mainstream media. With their work Ed and Ben give those woman a connection to catwalk fashion they would not otherwise get. By signposting their way to Courtney Love, Tavi Gevinson the Riot Girl manifesto and the Japanese Lolita subculture, MK are giving disaffected alt. fashion lovers a home.

Meadham Kirchhoff SS/12 ( images: topshop.com)

"Its a celebration of girls. Of the ridiculous artifice and expectation of female beauty. A celebration and disgust of it. So yeah...the normal." - Ed Meadham

Since airing this collection last September the designers have been picked up by the London office of New York based marketing company Black Frame whose other fashion clients are Rodarte and Visionaire. Currently the designers are simultaneously creating both their Autumn/Winter 2012 collection and the next edition of "A Magazine Curated by ". I'm looking forward to both; especially as one of my best friends Brix will be in their magazine.

A "Lolita" girl in Tokyo wearing the brand Angelic Pretty

The Angelic Pretty Dolls.

Meadham Kirchhoff have been considered a bit like Marmite in the fashion media up to now; but 2012 will be their year to go global as they now connect to their fans and therefore to their marketplace. Not long ago an A-list editor said to me in an exasperated tone "I can't understand why you like Meadham Kirchhoff". Now they feature prominently in her magazine's editorials. That says it all.

There is much to appreciate with the work of Ben and Ed this season, both intellectually and fashion wise. But don't look too far beyond the cupcake platforms and Hello Kitty inspired knits. They are too brilliant not to be enjoyed.

Meadham Kirchhoff Spring/Summer 2012 shoes by Nicholas Kirkwood. Whats not to love?

I do want to share the fabulously incongruous first drop of their S/S 2012 collection with you though. Interestingly, rather than commence the season by displaying their luxurious high-end pieces (with their equally luxurious prices), Net-a-Porter.com have smartly realised (as has Topshop who tapped them for two previous collaborations) that MK's fan base is not your average high ticket fashion consumer lady. She is definitely more punk rock than glossy fashion maven. Hence Meadham Kirchhoff fans will appreciate a hyper sweet T-Shirt perhaps especially if they have to scrape their pennies together to buy one. Anyway, here they are. Which one do you want? I adore the "Love is Revenge" T-Shirt. (P.S I've just checked and they are already selling out fast, especially in smaller sizes)

Love is Revenge t-shirt £130

Kitty tee £130

Riot Not Diet £130

FEAL'S TOP 12 GOLDEN GLOBES FAVOURITES

2012-01-16T14:40:00.005Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey & Bethan Holt, Fashion Editor + Fashion Junior at Large

It's January and, therefore, the film and TV industry's awards and party season is getting into full swing. We are currently imagining the atmosphere above L.A is more hairspray than smog. Last night the Golden Globes, the event seen as the precursor to the Oscars, took place took place in Hollywood though there were other significant get-dressed-up events too. But the Golden Globes is what we're interested in. It was surreal to wake up to a Twitter feed buzzing with Tweets from people still out on the razz in LA at the post Golden Globes parties.

Apart from the news about who won what and what that all means for the Oscars, the talk from the GG's is all about the red carpet style. Unlike catwalk and high street fashion, red carpet choices don't change much. You could look at the Golden Globes gowns from five years ago - long dresses, up-dos, diamonds - and the changes would not be anywhere near as obvious as if you compared LouisVuitton even from one season to the next.

Indeed, red carpet style takes only the merest nod from catwalk fashion. For actresses the objective is not to be 'on trend', (as it is in their off-duty ensembles) so much as just looking movie star fabulous and making sure their full-length gown, evening bag, shoes, hair and make-up works in harmony to create a flattering, beautiful look that gives good photo from multiple angles - not just the front on hand-on-hip-one-foot-in-front position. This is easier said than done. We've included a full list of the winners at the bottom of this post (congrats Idris Alba and Jean Dujardin, we love you!) after we've shown you our Top 9 favourite (and not so favourite) DRESSES! And our top two tuxedos. Do you agree?

1. ROONEY MARA IN NINA RICCI

It's good to see the work of one of my favourite designers, Peter Copping of Nina Ricci, on the red carpet. - MR

2. ZOOEY DESCHANEL IN PRADA (PLUS TUX NAILS)

J'adore Zooey's quirky style - MR

From Zooey's Twitter

Someone with a sense of quirky humour on the red carpet? Go Zooey! BH

3. JESSICA BIEL IN ELIE SAAB

Her undone hair works for us at FEAL HQ

4. DIANNA AGRON IN GILES

Our very own Giles Deacon on the Hollywood red carpet!

5. EVAN RACHEL WOOD IN GUCCI PREMIERE

This is a beautiful, classic pose. Gorgeous feathers and fab colour with her alabaster skin. BH

6. ANDREA RISEBOROUGH IN VIVIENNE WESTWOOD GOLD LABEL

Historical referencing, but a bit further back than the 30s Wallis Simpson she plays in Madonna's film W.E. A good red lip is the cherry on the cake. BH

7. ROMOLA GARAI IN ALESSANDRA RICH

This is actually looks modern yet appropriate and pretty- moving on the red carpet 'look'

8. MICHELLE WILLIAMS IN JASON WU

The cute headband make the devore column a bit more interesting. BH

9. ANGELINA JOLIE IN ATELIER VERSACE

Angelina and colour... It's a rare but happy sight BH

10. EMMA STONE IN LANVIN

Thanks to Verena Hafner who posted in the comment thread below, Emma Stone has made a belated entry into the FEAL Golden Globes top 10 best-dressed actresses. The dress, created by Alber Elbaz, might be a simple column shape, but the pleated damson and raspberry tulle combination is beautifully luxurious, and don't get me started on the belt! Love. MR

THE BEST MAN NO. 1.... MATT LEBLANC FOR THE NAVY

THE BEST MAN NO.2.... JEAN DUJARDIN... FOR THE GOOD POSING

AND THE ONES WE'RE NOT SO SURE ABOUT....

MERYL STREEP IN ALESSANDRA RICH

We're very happy about the choice of designer, Alessandra Rich is on the up. This looked great from a distance and is a great dress for her shape but close-up it the fabric looked unglamorous, we're not sure it was quite the one for Meryl.

FRIEDA PINTO IN PRADA

Part of us feels like this is very chic and a nice departure from glitz and flesh but it's also stiff and unflattering on her tiny frame.

TILDA SWINTON IN HAIDER ACKERMAN

The shape is fab and Tilda cannot really do any wrong. The lilac colour is so now; pretty and icy at the same time. It's just that the colour plus the jacket/ fishtail skirt seems, we hate to say it, a little bit Mother of the Bride. On its own and in a different context, the jacket could win the prize of best Jacket In the World.

THE WINNERS...

MOTION PICTURES

- Picture, Drama: The Descendants.
- Picture, Musical or Comedy: The Artist.
- Actor, Drama: George Clooney, The Descendants.
- Actress, Drama: Meryl Streep, The Iron Lady.
- Director: Martin Scorsese, Hugo.
- Actor, Musical or Comedy: Jean Dujardin, The Artist.
- Actress, Musical or Comedy: Michelle Williams, My Week With Marilyn.
- Supporting Actor: Christopher Plummer, Beginners.
- Supporting Actress: Octavia Spencer, The Help.
- Foreign Language: A Separation.
- Animated Film: The Adventures of Tintin.
- Screenplay: Woody Allen, Midnight in Paris.
- Original Score: Ludovic Bource, The Artist.
- Original Song: "Masterpiece" (music and lyrics by Madonna, Julie Frost, Jimmy Harry, W.E.

TELEVISION
- Series, Drama: Homeland, Showtime.
- Actor, Drama: Kelsey Grammer, Boss.
- Actress, Drama: Claire Danes, Homeland.
- Actor, Musical or Comedy: Matt LeBlanc, Episodes.
- Actress, Musical or Comedy: Laura Dern, Enlightened.
- Miniseries or Movie: Downton Abbey (Masterpiece)," PBS.
- Actor, Miniseries or Movie: Idris Elba, Luther.
- Actress, Miniseries or Movie: Kate Winslet, Mildred Pierce.
- Supporting Actress, Miniseries or Movie: Jessica Lange, American Horror Story
- Supporting Actor, Miniseries or Movie: Peter Dinklage, Game of Thrones

Images from Getty, Daily Mail, Grazia Daily, Makeuptalk.com, www.celebuzz.com

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 9th- 13th JANUARY

2012-01-13T13:46:00.006Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Happy Friday Fashion lovers and welcome to the first Week in Fashion of the year. It's certainly no slow start to 2012...

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty is up for a design award (image from Alexander McQueen)

It will be the resounding fashion image of 2011 and this week Sarah Burton's design for Kate Middleton's wedding dress was among the nominees on The Design Museum's longlist for its Design of the Year award. In further recognition for Alexander McQueen, the Savage Beauty exhibition (which is still on track to come to London in the not-too distant future) also appears among the contenders.

Miu Miu SS12 (image from fashiongonerogue.com)

A few interesting announcements on new brand faces this week. We're loving Mia Wasikowska for Miu Miu. The star of 'Jane Eyre' and 'Alice in Wonderland' fits perfectly with the dark kookiness of their SS12 collection. Not so cool though is this morning's news that Kristen Stewart (yes, she of Twilight megastardom) will be the face of Balenciaga's as yet unnamed perfume which will be released in the Summer. It's not that I actively dislike Kristen, it's just that she doesn't Wow. She follows in the footsteps of the aspirationally chic Charlotte Gainsbourg which kind of makes it worse.

Charlotte Gainbourg for Balenciaga (image from lafascination.com)

While us fashion press might have our opinions about Crocs, the ultimate 'ugly' shoe, it seems the world's love affair goes on. It was reported this week that the plastic clog company has raked in $1 billion revenue this year, a peak in its ten year existence. If any of us were sort of hoping they might quietly disappear then then we will be sorely disappointed to hear that they have gone from 'a casual fashion trend to a phenomenon with staying power'.

Rick Santorum is claiming the sweater vest as his 'thing' (image from latimes.com)

For Britain, 2012 will be the year of the Olympics and the Queen's Diamond Jubilee. In the US, it's election year and Barack Obama is seeking a second Presidential term. Just a week into election year and we already have TWO fashion stories to report. First up is Republican candidate Rick Santorum who is responsible for reintroducing 'the sweater vest' back into the collective consciousness. He has hailed the sleeveless jumpers as central to people starting to notice him, he claims they give him 'power'. And should you be inspired to follow Santorum's sartorial lead, then you can purchase your own sweater vest from his website. Unfortunately, this also means you'll be contributing to his campaign, hence I'm not posting a link.

A cute photo of the Obamas on their wedding day (from instyle.com)

Obama's Democrat campaign has a tad more fashion kudos behind it after the launch of Runway to Win. Anna Wintour, a big supporter of Obama from the start, has spearheaded the project (a repeat of the 2008 one) and persuaded 22 American designers to partake, including Marc Jacobs, Jason Wu, Diane Von Furstenberg and Joseph Altuzarra. Various accessories will be sold with proceeds going to Obama's Victory Fund. Wintour will be attending numerous events as part of Runway to Win, starting with a reception which Scarlett Johansson will co-host in February.

A Derek Lam tote for Obama $75

Karen Gillan and Aneurin Barnard in We'll Take Manhattan (image from dailymail.co.uk)

Shrimpton and Bailey (image from dailymail.co.uk)

On January 26th, a new film, We'll Take Manhattan, about the relationship between David Bailey (played by Aneurin Barnard) and Jean Shrimpton will be shown on BBC4. Shrimpton is played by Dr Who star Karen Gillan and there is thus plenty of buzz about its screening. From the images released this week, it looks set to be a visual delight. As part of the renewed interest in 'The Shrimp's' career, images taken by Ronald Falloon- a friend of Bailey's- have gone on sale here and they are quite gorgeous.

Jean Shrimpton by Ronald Falloon (image from vogue.co.uk)

It's hardly unusual for celebrity offspring to venture in their parents' footsteps- see the Geldofs and Jaggers for prime examples- but the moment when transformation from child to it-teenager takes place is quite intriguing. This week, Meg Matthews tweeted a photo of her daughter Anais, whose Daddy is Noel Gallagher, taken by Mario Testino. Although she's only 11, the image will surely get model agencies excited at the prospect of the dynamite combination of beauty and famous genes. Watch out Anais and enjoy being a little girl a while longer, however hard that may be when you have Mario Testino taking casual snaps of you. We suspect Noel was a bit pissed off.

Anais Gallagher by Mario Testino (image from Meg Matthews via Daily Mail)

As big fans of anyone who take it upon themselves to support young design talent, FEAL was happy to hear about the new H&M Design Award, details of which have been announced this morning. The winner of the International Award will receive a very helpful 50,000 euros plus the chance to show at Stockholm Fashion Week which, as judge Hilary Alexander says will 'catapult them straight to the front line of fashion'. Other judges include London design genius Christopher Kane and Head of Design at H&M, Ann-Sofie Johannson. You can follow the progress of the designers from Europe's most prestigious design schools (including London College of Fashion and St Martins) at the project's site. The winning designer will be announced on February 1st.

The awards season is getting under way already.Last night, the Critics Choice Awards took place and The Artist, my cinema choice for this weekend, swept the floor. Nevertheless, Meryl Streep is set to be the actress of the season and so all eyes will be on her designer choices- she's been loving Stella McCartney thus far. Yesterday, the FashEd bumped into Christopher Di Pietro of Vivienne Westwood, who revealed that the brand was in the final two for Meryl's Golden Globes dress. We'll be keeping our eyes peeled. And before you ask, Meryl is sorted for the Oscars apparently.

Christopher Kane styled by Francesca Burns for SS12

New season Jil Sander styled by Francesca Burns for British Vogue

We are loving some of the fresh approaches to showing the SS12 collections. Two standout favourites this week are British Vogue's 'Spring Forward' SS12 Spring Collections story by new Fashion Editor Francesca Burns, which is fresh with just the right smattering of quirks, and Steven Meisel's IVC film (a pun on QVC) for Italian Vogue. You can see it for yourselves below, but I completely love how they take a tired, outdated yet consistently cheesy and hilarious form of shopping and pop in the coolest, most desired new pieces in place of fish poachers and slankets.

A sale tip-off now: Hermes are having sales today and tomorrow of their Men's and Women's collections plus accessories. It's taking place at: Music Room, 26 South Molton Lane, London, W1K 5AB until 7 today and 8 til 6 tomorrow. Judging by Francesca Burns' twitter pic this morning, most of you are already there.

The Hermes queue, courtesy of Francesca Burns' Twitter

On Wednesday evening, I went along to the launch of Smile for London's new project for London Underground, Words in Motions. They've teamed up poets and animators to create short films which will be shown from Monday in tube stations. They were some brilliant performances from London poets, particularly fab were Salena Godden and Musa Okwonga. If you're not in London, or just fancy a sneak peek then press play below...

SfL: Word In Motion Teaser from Smile for London on Vimeo.

SHOW & TELL: TOPSHOP SS12

2012-01-13T13:31:00.001Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

While the other brands within the Arcadia group sink further into obscurity (400+ stores closing in next two years and lack of personality driving them), thank God the brilliant creatives at Topshop (and Topman) work it to maintain their pole position as the coolest fashionistas on the British and international high street.

There's no denying Topshop is an exciting and innovative fashion brand. Yesterday while other stores are sea of sale signs and packed rails, its Oxford Circus (London) store was a palace of pretty pastels and streety sportswear. Their plans to celebrate Topshop's 10 years of NEWGEN support gave me a thrill when I heard them - ten years worth of amazing collaborations, revisited in special luxe T-shirt collection. Yes please!

Last Autumn TopShop brought Kate Phelan in as Creative Director of Topshop from her senior position at British Vogue. I wanted to share her advertising images from the new Spring collection. The photographs by Josh Olins, and Kate's studied (colour) and beautifully insouciant (black & white) styling are a perfect introduction to the new season.

This model looks like the younger sister of 30-something Belgian model Anouck Lepere

This jacket is on my shopping list

My summer look

Jacket + silver mini rucksack please!

I'll be pulling together a look like this asap

Topshop Spring/Summer 2012

Stylist, Kate Phelan
Photographer, Josh Olins - CLM
Hair, Sam McKnight- Premier
Makeup, Hannah Murray - JW
Manicure, Jenny Longworth- CLM
Production, CLM

IN DEFENCE OF 'MOM HAIR'

2012-01-12T15:42:00.003Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Vogue's February issue, with a smiling, Mom haired Arizona

Ever since February's Vogue landed on my doormat, I've developed a mild obsession with its covergirl, Arizona Muse's hair. Not because I am a long-haired girl craving a change but because her hair is the perfect version of my own style. In fact it is my style.

Thanks to fashionista.com for compiling my ideal hair mood board

Since this Vogue hit news stands there has been a backlash against the style. Some people are not so receptive to what they call 'Mom hair'. The audacity! As if short hair with a feminine, slightly blow-dried swish to it was somehow the preserve only of harassed mothers of young children. Fashionista.com wrote about this and linked to a forum where Arizona's Vogue cover was being dissected. Do these people have lives?
Some of the comments included:

" Btw the hair is the same that both my Grandmas have"
" I just wish her hair wasn't so matronly"
" From Model Mom to Mom Model"

Arizona for Fendi SS12 (image from fashiongonerogue.com)

Well, Fashion Junior is wading in in defence of 'Mom hair' because I love it and will probably, boringly perhaps, keep this style for the rest of my life. It kind of deserves its Mom moniker because it is the world's easiest haircut. I run most days and commute to work, so would never be faffing about with blow-drying a high maintenance long hairstyle. I also suffer from an inexplicable disgust at any hair which creeps beyond the neck. While my friends coo over each others nearly waist-length locks, I get shivers at all that dead protein lying prone on their backs. And don't get me started on ponytails.

Fashion Junior's 'Mom' hair- Do I LOOK like a Mom???

Arizona for Isabel Marant SS12 (Image from fashionista.com)

Admittedly, both those reasons are just about personal preference but from a style perspective, Mom hair is also a winner. The look is short enough that it makes you stand out, it's fresh and it's cute. There's not the obvious girliness of long hair, but there's enough to flirt with. It's certainly not so short that you risk looking like a boy. Mark my words, I predict 'Mom Hair' will be fashionable by Spring time.

Arizona's look is a case in point. In the Isabel Marant ads she wears it natural, but in Vogue it's quiffed and curled. For New Year's Eve, I slicked mine right down for flapper-girl fancy dress. SS12 is a breath of fresh air- everything is light and pretty, but also with sporty and retro elements playing their parts. 'Mom' hair is an ideal accompaniment and can be tweaked for any of those trends.

Arizona in February Vogue, styled by Lucinda Chambers

I know that at 24, I should probably be experimenting with dip dyeing and undercuts like most of my super trendy contemporaries, but I've always been drawn to classic, with a twist. 'Mom' hair does just that for me. Call it matronly if you like, but there's not an apron or a small child in sight in my life.

SHOW AND TELL: SHOE BUSINESS

2012-01-12T15:17:00.002Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

As most of you know, I have two fashion lives; one as a journalist and blogger, the other as a consultant. In my consultant life one of my clients is my other half. Just writing that makes me think arrrgggh! Collaborating with ones own spouse has the potential to be fraught and stressful, but happily this job isn't tough at all. When the project is as enjoyable as conjuring up perfect everyday fashion shoes for summer with Clarks, work becomes pleasure. The Mary Portas & Clarks shoe collection was conceived last year to be one offering beautifully made, gorgeously on-trend fashion shoes with the high quality and glorious hidden comfort Clarks is famous for. The idea with each shoe is to create a fashion cocktail with chic + edge, then decorate as ingredients. The range is aimed those grown up women who have given up taking a few Nurofen so they can go out in heels for the night.

The first Mary Portas + Clarks collection for AW11 was a hit, (massive phew) so I'm excited to show you a sneak preview of the new collection for Spring/Summer 2012 which arrives at Clarks online, selected Clarks stores and at House of Fraser Oxford Street on February 13th 2012. My favourites are the lilac suede La Amelie (below, left) and the black studded La Provence, (the white ones are far below, right.)

La Amelie in lilac suede, natural snake leather and lime suede. £99.99

La Gigi in coral combi leather and snake combi leather £79.99 + La Provence in white leather £89.99

A few of the styles from the first collection have been updated and given a twist for spring.

La Wesley in tan snake leather, £89.99 La Peep in lime suede, (see below), La Marianne in black £79.99

We made a peep toe out of last season's platform court shoe... love the colour

La Peep £99.99 (also in black leather, lilac suede, natural snake)

We also gave our black suede wedge boots the peep toe treatment and warmed up the colour

La Minx £110 (also available in black suede)

The bestselling easy court shoe from last season has been refined to be more pointy

La Marianne £79.99 (also in coral snake leather, natural snake leather and black snake leather)

MORE YAYOI KUSAMA

2012-01-11T16:51:00.002Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Couldn't resist sharing. If you want to know more about Yayoi we posted this earlier in the week.

PREFALL AW12: GETTING TROUSERED

2012-01-11T15:39:00.003Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

As a fashion editor I'm supposed to be analysing the just launching prefall collections to give you a steer on the where fashion is going, but instead I'm shopping for myself. This is to be expected as the prefall collections are, certainly for me and my friends, the richest source for the designer clothes we hone in on and buy as they arrive at the shops in late summer.

I'm not a woman who buys an off-the-runway look. However fabulous it is, give me the stuff I can wear over and over again please. As a dedicated wearer of trousers (today I'm wearing my navy "Cult of Nobody"jeans AGAIN) I have been looking for inspiration for where to take my trouser style, and happily found it from my personal current favourite crop of designers. These are: Carven, Theyskens Theory, Preen, and Givenchy. Celine is currently off my list as the Autumn collection was too heavy to wear for normal London life, and way too expensive.

Sometimes I feel like the only trousers obsessed woman on the block... Its not that I don't like dresses, I can rock a dress like the best of them, but I love wearing trousers. Are there any more of you out there?

Theyskens Theory Prefall AW12 - these leather jeans are effing gorgeous

Giles Prefall AW12 - digging the flares again

Preen Prefall AW12 - a good shade of orange

Givenchy Prefall AW12 - loving this whole look to the max

Carven Prefall AW12 - i think you would call these "slacks" now theres a word I haven't heard for a while

Images are courtesy of the designers

TREND TRASH: "GET THE MARGARET THATCHER LOOK!"

2012-01-10T17:54:00.001Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

If I were a more easily influenced consumer then I might be wearing a twee M & S suit and pussy bow blouse to bring you this blog post. Fortunately, I have thus far managed not to succumb to all the press releases and media stories (newspaper fashion journalists, you know who you are) which insist that, to coincide with the release of Phylidda Lloyd's Meryl Streep as Margaret Thatcher biopic, The Iron Lady, we should all be forming an orderly queue to buy a blue skirt suit and asking our hairdresser for helmet hair.

Thatcher enters office in 1979 (image from guardian.co.uk)

Last Thursday, The Guardian (admitedly not a likely source of Thatcher loving) asked a number of high profile women that terribly uncomfortable question, Is Margaret Thatcher a feminist icon? To my mind, she showed girls they can achieve anything they want, but that does not make her a feminist icon.

I was far more interested in what feminist columnist Bidisha had to say:

'Her stiff serge tailoring, boxy croc handbags, patent court shoes, pussycat bow blouses and set hair have been fetishised by a moronic, apolitical fashion industry'

Those words MORONIC and APOLITICAL have stuck in my mind since, and snaps back into focus every time one of those aforemetioned "How To Get The Margaret Thatcher Look!" PR emails pings into my inbox.

I don't want to look like Margaret Thatcher, and I know my friends don't either. Since when has 1980s Tory chic been cool? I checked with the FashEd, to make sure I hadn't got it all terribly wrong, and she assures me that in no point in the history of time has the Thatcher 'look' been even close to fashionable. Even in the 80s, she looked about thirty years out of date compared to mega glam supermodels, and Comme des Garcons clad trendies or power-shouldered yuppies. So why should we start 'getting her look' now just because we're seeing the film, in our droves allegedly?

Thatcher speaks at conference (image from guardian.co.uk)

One of the brands to home in on the hype is Anya Hindmarch. They have dedicated the windows at their Pont Street Store to mannequins trussed up in Thatcher-ish outfits and carrying the brand's Ebury bag (which Meryl Streep and Margaret Thatcher both own). Hindmarch said:

'The cleverest thing about Thatcher’s image was how her clothes never detracted from her character. That was quite a feat, I suspect, to look good and still not be talked about for your clothes.’

Anya Hindmarch's window tributes

The irony of this comment is blatant. If we admire someone for the fact that their clothes are not the first thing we think about in relation to them then putting faceless mannequins in said clothes flys in the face of your theory doesn't it?

Launer, whose bags are carried by the Queen, suspect their 59% sales increase over Christmas is down to The Iron Lady effect. Well, I beg to differ. My predecessor wrote last year about the revived interest in Launers, mostly down to a prevailing fashion mood which values ladylike elegance and is not in any way confined to Maggie fever.

Meryl Streep as Britain's first and only female Prime Minister

Given that Thatcher owns Launer and Anya Hindmarch bags, the brands can almost be forgiven for taking the opportunity to underline the link. Bizarre, however, is Peacocks, purveyor of cheap and barely cheerful fashion for 30-40 year old women who are suggesting that we go to them to for our Maggie makeover.

Why any woman of that age would want to frump up Thatcher style is beyond us. Oh and before you go believing the Evening Standard's theory that the reemergence of cobalt blue is down to the Tory associations, may we just say Yves Klein to you and suggest that the roots of that colour trend are a result of a deeper exploration with colour referencing which fashion has embraced for several seasons now. You only need to watch Miranda Priestley (also played by Streep) give her monologue on the emergence of cerulean blue in that fictional fashion world in The Devil Wears Prada to know that it is far more complex than a designer googling a picture of Thatcher entering Downing Street.

So, a FEAL warning... Thatcher style is not to be copied. In fact, it is shit and the sooner it disappears from our inboxes and magazines the better.

DOTS AWAY! YAYOI KUSAMA FOR LOUIS VUITTON

2012-01-09T16:40:00.008Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

2012 will be a landmark year for Louis Vuitton. Or conversely a big year for us and our interaction with brand Louis Vuitton in ways that involve more than gawping at the runway pictures (or in my case admiration from my ringside seat).

LV's first ever perfume is in progress with none other than Jacques Cavalier-Belletrud the nose behind Lancome's Poeme and Dior Addict at the mixing desk. This pretty much guarantees the fragrance will be sexy and feminine. On March 9th, a day after the close of Paris Fashion week, La Musee des Arts Decoratifs opens Louis Vuitton - Marc Jacobs exploring the parallel fashion stories of Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs on their century apart ride through the eras of, respectively, industrialisation and globalisation. The launch party on March 8th will come hours after the Vuitton show which closes Paris Fashion Week.

In addition Marc Jacobs spoke publicly for the first time about turning down the Dior job offer and why he is happy to stay at Louis Vuitton saying "It was best for everyone." :

"It’s a great honour to be considered, and Mr Arnault is a super intelligent man and a very smart man and it was certainly a very great honour for him to know that I was capable – and not only capable but that I am someone that he would have wanted for the job. But I am very happy to be here. There is so much more left to do and building Louis Vuitton into a fashion company is something nobody else can say they really started." (via Telegraph Fashion)

It is utterly enchanting that Mr Vuitton created this trunk, doll and dolls trousseau in 1865

Before all of the fashion week and exhibition hoo-ha, on February 9th, Louis Vuitton steps out as the bold face backer of "Yayoi Kusama" at Tate Modern in London. The exhibition, two years in the making with intense collaboration between the Tate and Kusama, is an epic look at the work of the 60-year career of the Japanese artist as notorious for her prodigious output of polka dot paintings as she is for her mental instability. Looking at 82-year-old Kusama's work is akin to taking a trip, only without putting the LSD on your tongue and getting on the magic carpet...

Yayoi Kusana going dotty (via creativityfuse.com)

When it was first announced that Vuitton was backing Kusama at the Tate I thought it was a missed opportunity for the brand not to collaborate with her on a special accessories and fashion collection. Anyone who remembers the frenzy and wonder of the collaborations with Murakami and Sprouse can see the dotty possibilities of what a Vuitton and Kusama product might look like.

Murakami meets Louis Vuitton 2003

When I asked the Vuitton team if such a collab was in the offing I saw a glint in their eye, but a denial came from their lips. HOWEVER they were fibbing!

Yayoi Kusama - here's hoping an adapation of this appears on an LV Speedy and a scarf come July

The artist in the 1960s

Vuitton would never miss an opportunity like this. The work of Kusama is a gift from heaven for them, and OF COURSE they are doing a collection. Marc Jacobs is a longtime admirer of Kusama so it really was only a matter of time. The February edition of Vogue confirms it, though the info is buried in Harriet Quick's excellent profile of Kusama. Well, here it is..

In July Louis Vuitton WILL oversee the global launch of its most expansive collaboration ever - bigger than both Murakami and Sprouse. Now that IS big. It takes a lot for me to get excited about a product launch but this one has got me VERY excited. Now, Louis Vuitton PR team when oh when can we see it? And does it it mean Marc and Lorenzo (below) will have a new set of multi-coloured dotty beach bags, trunks and towels for their next vaycay? Please get back to me on this.

Image from dailymail.co.uk

Yayoi Kusama is at Tate Modern from February 9 to June 5
Louis Vuitton - Marc Jacobs March 9 to 16th September www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr

SS12: NEW YEAR, NEW COLOURS FROM GERHARD RICHTER

2012-01-06T18:32:00.001Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Here at FEAL, we have been enjoying a rather extended Christmas break however I can assure you that normal service will resume on Monday.

I finally got around to visiting Tate Modern's Gerhard Richter: Panorama exhibition this week. I could go on about how Richter uses art to protest, to explore Germany's attitudes the World War Two or his quite beautiful ability to paint pictures as realistic as photographs, but that's not very fashion is it?

Instead, I want to tell you about his use of colour. After a period of using mostly grey in his work- to express the misery of concentration camps- Richter turned to colour in the 1980s; 'some writers suggested the paintings reflected a period of personal joy and renewed confidence in painting' the exhibition guide tells us. Funnily enough, the prevailing mood of the SS12 collections was happy and pretty and joyful. A hugely positive message at a time when the world is apparently facing the biggest crisis since WWII as economies across the world struggle to cope. We could be downcast but fashion says No.

We'll be bringing you more in-depth looks at the SS12 trends in the coming weeks but for now, here is Richter and SS12 colour....

FRESH:

Carven SS12

GIRLISH PASTELS:

Marni SS12

JUNGLE:

Peter Pilotto SS12

And one of my favourite images from the Richter exhibition (only on until Sunday), a portrait of his wife Ema, a response to Marcel Duchamp's 'Nude Descending a Staircase'.

All Gerhard Richter images from www.Gerhard-Richter.com

All Catwalking images from www.Catwalking.com

ADVENT DAY 24: THE TRUE SPIRIT OF CHRISTMAS

2011-12-24T18:02:00.002Z

Posted by Bethan and Melanie

In past twenty four days we have brought you some of the most fabulous and covetable fashion items out there. As people who work in fashion, that's our job and we adore it. Fashion is a part of our culture. But fashion does not exist in a vacuum. This year we have seen riots on the streets of London and more stories of economic woe which are likely to continue into 2012. Today we think it'd be nice to remember that there are many people who cannot pay rent, let alone buy into their fashion fantasies.

Around 4,000 people sleep on the streets of London every night and experts are saying that that number will probably go up next year. That thought is bad enough on any normal night but with Christmas upon us- a time for being cosy at home with our families and friends- it doesn't bear thinking about.

There are a few charities out there who are transforming another bleak day on the street into an opportunity for the homeless of cities across the UK, one of them is Crisis. For almost 40 years they have been helping the homeless, serving traditional Christmas dinner and providing all kinds of activities as well as practical assistance to help guests get out of rough sleeping. Amazingly, for just £23.39 (you probably paid more for your Turkey) Crisis can give one homeless person three good meals, advice, skills sessions and somewhere friendly to be on what should be the friendliest day of the year.

So, we reckon on the final day of advent, and in the spirit of giving shelter and food to those in need (Mary and Joseph were given shelter and food too) forking out for 5 places at a Crisis centre could be the best £116.95 you've spent all year.

Fashion Editor at Large just donated £116.95 on behalf of all of you who read us, helping Crisis give five homeless people a special day on December 25th.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!

“Just as modern motorways have no room for ox-carts or

wandering pedestrians, so modern society has little place for

lives and ways that are too eccentric.”

― A.C. Grayling, The Meaning of Things: Applying Philosophy to Life

ADVENT DAY 23: THE BLACK SWAN COMETH

2011-12-23T19:14:00.002Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

The Black Swan ring created by Boucheron

We are reaching the end of our Advent journey. Work at FEAL towers came to a halt at midday today, until 2012. I'm now at home in front of the fire wrapping presents, playing cheesy Christmas songs and putting away home made mince pies. My guess is you are or soon will be doing much the same. I love that Christmas seems to be the only time of the year when we all stop and take time to reflect on the year behind us, and the one ahead. The penultimate advent post celebrates the incredible beauty of Parisian fine jewellery. I'll leave the description to Boucheron...

Not surprisingly, the price is given on request.

"In nature we never repeat the same motion. In captivity (office, gym, commute, sports), life is just repetitive stress injury. No randomness."

Nassim N. Taleb, author of Black Swan, The Impact of the Highly Improbable

For today, I'll leave you with an astounding scene from Black Swan in which Natalie Portman demonstrates her awesome power as an actor. Give that girl an Oscar!

THE WEEK IN FASHION: DECEMBER 19th-23rd

2011-12-23T00:27:00.001Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

I may have said that last week's fashion news was the last of the year but then stuff happened and we agreed that it wouldn't be right if we didn't tell you all about it.

Despite the rest of us winding down, the week has been full of pre-fall collections and SS12 campaign imagery. We'll bring you pre-fall news later in the festive period, for now here are the major campaigns which have been unveiled in the past seven days.

NINA RICCI: Raquel Zimmerman shot by Inez and Vinoodh

VALENTINO: Zuzanna Bijoch, Bette Franke, Maud Welzen and Fei Fei Sun shot by Deborah Turbeville

Very beautiful. I love Deborah Turbeville's work and it's nice to see a major label using a photographer outside the usual band of names called upon for the ad campaign job.

VERSACE: Gisele Bundchen shot by Mert and Marcus

YVES SAINT LAURENT: Mariacarla Boscono shot by David Sims

PRADA: Natasha Poly, Meghan Collison, Elise Crombez, Ymre Stiekema and Katryn Kruger shot by Steven Meisel

This is so much more prim and grown-up than AW11's surreal campaign. It underlines the observation that this is Miuccia Prada's most commercial collection for some time.

GIVENCHY: Gisele Bundchen shot by Mert and Marcus

Gisele also stars in the Versace campaign. Funnily enough, Givenchy and Versace were two of the labels whose SS12 made us think of Under the Sea. For their campaigns, they've gone super modern, super sexy mermaid- the water is there but it's in no way whimsical or mythical.

CHANEL: Joan Smalls and Saskia de Brauw shot by Karl Lagerfeld

Similarly, this could have been so mermaidy, but is instead very riviera. Mademoiselle would surely approve.

BALENCIAGA: Laura Kampman shot by Steven Meisel

All campaign images are from fashiongonerogue.com

In other news...

Marques' Almeida (image via catwalking.com)

The AW12 line-up for Fashion East has been announced this week. The panel decided to stick with the success of SS12 and so there are no new names to report. James Long, Marques Almeida and Maarten van der Horst have been given a chance to build on the success which their collections shown in September have achieved. Panel member and FEAL favourite Sarah Mower said:

‘Fashion East’s 2012 cohort of designers excelled so remarkably that all their Spring collections have already been picked up by stores. So having them back to show together again for Fall 2012 will give buyers and journalists a second chance to spectate as these contenders take off in [the] Olympic year.’

James Long (image via catwalking.com)

Maarten van der Horst (image via catwalking.com)

Giambattista Valli has been officially admitted to the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. The label showed in July as a guest at Haute Couture week but has impressed so much that the usual five year process for acquiring membership has been fast-tracked. President of the Chambre Synidcale, Didier Grumbach said:

“It was clear from his show [in July] that he has caught the attention of a new generation of customers, and he immediately took important orders for his couture ... it’s true that the haute couture appellation gives him legitimacy, but objectively speaking, he is already part of the system.”

A look from Valli's July show (image from nymag.com)

Duchess Kate's five-outfits-in-a-day for Christmas at Sandringham may be causing hysteria among certain sections of the media, but here at FEAL we're slightly more interested in the announcement this week that Princess Diana's dresses are to be displayed at Kensington Palace from 26th March next year. Proper fashion history.

Diana meets Princess Grace of Monaco (image from telegraph.co.uk)

Tempted to dress like a panto fairy? Take this Christmas fashion advice from Karl Lagerfeld, via Courtney Love, backed up by Karl's muse Lady Amanda Harlech:

"One time I was standing at the Mercer and Karl Lagerfeld goes, ‘What are you doing in this tutu?’ and I say ‘I have a record coming out.’ So Lagerfeld says to me, 'you are not getting laid in a tutu.' And Lady Amanda Harlech, who I adore who works for Karl, goes 'Courtney, you’re really not getting laid in a tutu.' And I realized, you know, that I did look like Baby Jane Hudson."

Karl says NO (Image from telegraph.co.uk)

Everyone seems to be holding their breath for a challenging 2012. This week, Paul Smith announced a 36% rise in profits to £34 million despite the fact that Japan, one of their biggest markets, has had a turbulent year. More pessimistically, Prada's share price has plummeted by 32% since July. Analysts predict that even Chinese consumers will be cutting back on spending in the New Year. Given that over 40% of Prada's revenue came from this market in 2010, that forecast paints a dim outlook for the label into 2012. Hence the commerciality of SS12 perhaps, clever Miuccia.

We may be awaiting news of Chanel's SS12 campaign but it was revealed this week that Alice Dellal will be the new face of the Boy bag campaign. After spotting Dellal at a photoshoot several months ago, Karl Lagerfeld apparently couldn't get her out of his mind. Chanel said: "Alice Dellal represents the perfect incarnation of all that is unique about the Boy Chanel handbag collection, which strives [to be] far from conformist notions of femininity." In the teaser image which has been released, Alice is looking super girly- where's that undercut?

Image from Vogue.co.uk

Bruno Guillon has been recruited by Mulberry to take over from current Chief Executive and Chairman Godfrey Davis. Guillon is leaving his position as Managing Director at Hermes to take up the position. Mulberry's growth has been nothing short of jaw-dropping but this move makes it quite clear that label has no intention of slowing down. There is plenty of room for Mulberry to expand with more stores abroad. It seems that with Guillon working alongside Davis (who becomes non-executive chairman) there will be the know-how in place to one of Somerset's finest exports a properley global brand.

Finally, in case you've been living on Pluto then you will know that fashion's favourite TV show, Absolutely Fabulous, is back with new episodes for Christmas after a hiatus of more than seven years. Edina has apparently embraced blogging and tweeting and has replaced her love of Lacroix with a Stella McCartney obsession. Be sure to have the Bolly on ice for Christmas Day at 10 sweeties.

A sneak peek...

For old time's sake...

ADVENT DAY 22: A RUCKSACK, BUT NOT AS YOU KNOW IT

2011-12-22T16:48:00.000Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

The Row Leather Backpack £2,635

It was not so long ago that rucksacks represented the anitthesis of what we wanted from a bag. It was all about the arm candy, the It-ness, the glint of a designer tag. There were stories of women developing major back and shoulder injuries as a result of tucking their Lariat/ Alexa in the crook of their elbow for far too long. The inevitable return to a more practical model has seen the rise and rise of the satchel over the past year. And, more and more, the rucksack. Despite the usual connotations of practicality, techy fabrics and a pouch for a water bottle, there are a number of super luxe versions for those of us who can only handle this trend when it is taken as far away from potential Jansport comparisons as possible.

Enter The Row. While all their contemporaries are wearing bargain army surplus finds or battered up vintage leather versions of the rucksack, 25 year-old squillionaires Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have created a rather stunning £2,635 taupe objet de back art. Whether anyone besides themselves will be purchasing it is slightly doubtful but it is a thing of beauty we simply had to share. I went to view The Row's SS12 collection in Paris earlier this year. It was pristine and beautiful, all the materials and details hummed with luxury. I spied Mary Kate and Ashley in the corner of the vast room being interviewed. I can only describe the way they looked as reminding me of toys which had never been taken out of their box- so bright and shiny. Their collection is so covetable yet to have an item from it would really only be of any use if you lived your life away from the hum drum of grimy streets, public transport and well, reality.

'Contemplation seems to be about the only luxury that costs nothing' Dodie Smith

Lucy Rose is a friend of a friend. She works with Bombay Bicycle Club and has been supporting Ed Sheeran recently. If you're feeling the effects of pre-Christmas frenzy, close your eyes and listen to this this. Bliss.

ADVENT DAY 21: I WANT OPYUM

2011-12-21T16:48:00.003Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

YSL 'Opyum' high heel pump, £440 at Yves Saint Laurent

While out in central London this morning doing the last of my Christmas shopping I couldn't resist popping into Yves Saint Laurent. YSL is the label that most closely resembles my high fashion ideal. If it were possible on a journalist income, which it most definitely isn't, YSL would dominate my wardrobe.

Nevertheless, the black interior of the brands' Old Bond Street store has cocoon like qualities which swiftly lulled me into a trance while flitting between cabinets of (relatively) affordable and striking costume jewellery and recessed areas displaying shoes and bags. To give you an idea, a large gilt pendant on thick black rope was £365 at YSL, while across the road at Prada a fairly standard diamante necklace with rose motif cost an astronomical £870.

I had absolutely no intention of purchasing anything at YSL until, upstairs, I came across a new line of shoes from its cruise collection. One of them is above. It is an elegant pump called Opyum (the brands most famous fragrance is called Opium) and it was love at first sight. Heads up: elegant shoes with refined silhouettes are back in favour for spring as fashion's first adopters are slowly moving away from the platforms, wedges and chunky blingy shapes of the last few years.

So, darn it that the Opyum range, in store for just six days so far, and offered in slingback and with different toe tip colours, was already low on stock.

I did what I had to do. They are available to buy online if you click the link above.

“Did they know why they knew? Not at all. But

they Knew!”

― Malcolm Gladwell, Blink

British singer/songwriter/musician Anna Calvi is on my radar for 2012. Her eponymous debut album was shortlisted for the 2011 Mercury Prize, and as we close the year both Frida Giannini of Gucci and Karl Lagerfeld are citing her as an inspiration, and she features in this months French Vogue. Calvi's music is an acquired taste but her look is straight from a Helmut Newton photograph. I love this video for the track "I'll be Your Man."

ADVENT DAY 20: CLICK CLICK CLICK!

2011-12-20T16:03:00.063Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Heaven is Real (Kate eyes shut) 1991 by Corinne Day

Heaven is Real (Kate eyes open) 1991 by Corinne Day

In my other life I collect fashion photography. Also in my other life I would have these prints on the wall of my study and looking up at them I would feel happy and soothed by the angelic beauty of the Mossy aged 17. As it is these prints are top of my fantasy Christmas wish list. I gave Corinne Day's gallery Gimpel Fils a quick call just now just to see how much they cost, a step I haven't taken before. I usually just admire them on the website. They cost £10,000 each + VAT.

"Egotism is the anesthetic that dulls the pain of stupidity."

~Frank Leahy, Look, 10 January 1955

En Vogue "Hold On" 1990

Tuuuuuuune!

HOW TO GET A JOB IN FASHION

2011-12-19T17:06:00.003Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

I've now been Fashion Junior for almost five months. When I was chatting with the FashEd the other day, it struck us both just how far I'd come. Six months ago, I was finishing my English degree and wondering what I would do with my life. Fashion Journalism had been my first choice of career ever since I saw a documentary about Anna Wintour, on a plane when I was 12- what a cliché.

I did my best to exploit my very few contacts in journalism as soon as I could and so got a couple of internships under my belt when I was still quite young. However, the gloomy picture which my university (a well-respected red brick) painted for me made me dedicate most of my third year to Plan B- The Graduate Scheme. That meant taking part in endless psychometric tests, assessment exercises which ranged from building a bridge made out of Lego with 10 other people to spending three hours dealing with a fictional earthquake. I got further than many with lots of the schemes which I applied for but fell at the final hurdle each time. So, I can well understand the frustration of young people looking for work who have slogged their way through a degree (a decent one does require considerable dedication, contrary to popular belief) as well as doing voluntary work, internships and taking up positions on committees of university societies but finding they STILL don't fit the bill.

Fashion Junior graduating!

All this meant that by the time I was tweaking the final essay of my academic career (further study was something I couldn't face) I was still not sure where my next pennies were coming from. I had joined Twitter as an observer, following people who tweeted about things which interested me. It became better procrastination than Facebook. So as I wrote about post-colonial interpretations of Shakespeare, My Fairy Twitter Mother, Melanie Rickey, tweeted that she needed an intern for a few weeks. I tweeted back and there began my astoundingly swift journey from unemployed graduate statistic to Fashion Junior at Large, a job which not only involves posting on this blog but also helping out the FashEd with all her other projects.

Around 100 people applied for the job I have and I still have to pinch myself that I am the one who got it. I see internships and jobs advertised every day via Twitter. In fact, you should follow @katie_jane_rose because she is always retweeting opportunities. You'd be stupid not to be on Twitter if you want a career in any industry which has embraced it. It is a unique chance to connect with the key people. I was very lucky to get a paid job straight away, I don't contest that and don't want to sound like a brat. I was gearing myself up for unpaid internships like many of my friends. I'm lucky that my parents live near enough to London that I could have done that. It's a travesty that that fact is a prerequisite for gaining experience in capital-centric industries. Even doing paid work at weekends would do nothing to cover rent in London.

I wanted to write about this because I feel despair about the situation which so many people my age find themselves in. On Friday, Dazed ran the first of a series of interviews with young people about the unemployment they face entitled 'Wasted Youth'.Newspapers are full of gloomy stories about the situation with plenty of jobseekers willing to tell their stories; what's shocking and should send shivers done the spine of every person in this country is that these people range from 17 year olds who want to become plumbers and electricians to 24 year-olds with Masters degrees. No path or background is a guarantee any more.

But I do think we can be more positive and more savvy. I loved Celine Cavaillero's website which even made it onto Vogue.co.uk after she recreated their site as her CV. At the time, everyone was talking about her and being entertained by her way of making herself stand out. I gather that since then she has landed a job with Yahoo in France.

But it's not all about gimmicks; I know I wouldn't have been offered my job with the FashEd had I not displayed considerable fashion geekiness. I gave an impassioned monologue about my love of Jonathan Saunders' AW11 collection. I was also able to explain who Ines de la Fressange and Diana Vreeland were. These people are not completely obscure but you do need to have been immersing yourself in fashion news and history to be able to answer.

So, if you are looking for a job in fashion I suggest you do hours of research, looking through the latest collections, reading about designers, see what Fashion Editors are talking about. Learn to make a fabulous cup of tea and think one step ahead of your potential employer (not always easy!). Be endlessly proactive. 'The harder you work, the luckier you get' a very wise editor I admire recently wrote and that could not be truer.

ADVENT DAY 19: THINKING OF SUN

2011-12-19T15:39:00.000Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Start have this on sale for £115 in XS, if you're not XS then Net-Porter is your place for £185

I write this from my desk, one handed, as the the other hand grips onto my umpteenth cup of tea of the day, made in a desperate attempt to keep warm. I am layered up with jumpers and scarves but it's not helping. I want to be somewhere warm, like lying on sheepskin next to a burning log fire or on a farflung beach where clothes are not necessary and the only tea needed is of the Long Island variety. So I thought it might help (optimistically perhaps) if I wrote about what I would be wearing on said beach. My hands down first choice is a We Are Handsome swimsuit. These first came to many people's attention last year when Rihanna and Diane Kruger amongst others confounded the usual expectations of celebrity beach attire- a super skimpy, frilly bikini- by choosing the label's Amazon Panther print swimsuit. It sold out rather fast after that. However, if you're still interested, Net-a-Porter have an exclusive re-stock. I love the The Amazon but there are also plenty of other fab designs; The Knight Rider shows a staggeringly handsome horse galloping off into the starry night while The Hunter shows a pensive stag. If you're not into the animals then The Carnival (with a very cool scuba zip) and The Garden might be more up your street. If you're lucky enough to be popping off for some winter sun then Start already have a few We are Handsome pieces on sale. And for those of us stuck with the layering and lying in front of log fires option, this is an optimistic future planning purchase.

The Amazon re-stocked exclusively at Net-a-Porter for £190


Rihanna in her panther print (image from wearehandsome.com)

Sunshine is useful for other stuff than keeping us warm on a beach... George Eliot's rather wonderful metaphor for egotism...

'He was like a cock who thought the sun had risen to hear him crow' George Eliot

Whatever you think of Rihanna, you can't argue that this is one of THE definining songs of 2011...

ADVENT DAY 18: FASHION FOR EARS

2011-12-18T17:23:00.001Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Plattan Quilted Earphones £80 from Urbanears

A few weeks ago, the Fashed reported in Grazia about the new 'fashion-ear-stars' (as in fashionistas, get it? She's so proud of that pun). It's not new to use earphones as a kind of fashion statement, especially since that white wire attached to ipod earphones became such a marker of coolness. However, there are now brands which mark you out as being particularly in the loop. Beats by Dr Dre is probably the best example. It seems that posing with some Solos round your neck/ perched atop your head your hip factor goes off the scale. But then there is the retaliatory group which sees them as just too posey. The FashEd and I have become big fans of Urbanears which are sleek and discreet. They come in an array of sharp colours and when displayed look like a big pantone chart. Our favourites are the quilted plattans which have something of the Chanel about them. They appeal to those in the know, but aren't garish or branded with logos like other brands.

Today's quote and video are random things which my friends have been showing me this weekend...

'I am waiting for a really strong and meaningful pig role' Miss Piggy, of course

ADVENT DAY 17: IT'S BETTER THAN A BOOK

2011-12-17T12:03:00.000Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

The FashEd and I are the first ones to extol the virtues of a fabulous fashion book. We are both inspired by them on an almost daily basis. However, this week I believe the ultimate alternative to the coffee table fashion book has been revealed. And that is the full, online archive of US Vogue. Admittedly, it is considerably more expensive than a book, but the wealth of fashion reference which a subscription to this service would provide is immeasurable. Not only can you scroll through each and every issue of American Vogue published since its inception in 1892 but the archive is also very searchable, thus providing a resource for tracing the careers of photographers, models, writers and editors from the past 120 years. The privilege of access to this amazing chart of fashion and social history will cost $1,575 (that's just over £1,000) but if you want to be a favourite with a lover of fashion this Christmas then this would be utterly perfect. I coudn't put the video here, but CBS news spoke to Anna Wintour and Vogue's Editor at Large, Hamish Bowles, about what it means to be in Vogue and the history and relevance of the publication, absolutely worth a watch.

'When I die, I want to go to Vogue' David Bailey

Me too.

I have a bit of an obsession with 90s music at the moment. This seems apt for today.

THE WEEK IN FASHION: DECEMBER 12th-16th

2011-12-16T14:55:00.004Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Welcome to the final fashion news round-up of 2011. It's been quite a year; the 'Who will go to Dior?' question has filled a spot most weeks since we began this feature back in June. We thought that the saga might be neatly tied up in time for Christmas when rumours began to circulate again earlier in the week...

Raf Simons, in stark white, couldn't be more different from Galliano (from anothermag.com)

On Tuesday, British fashion woke up to Dior and Raf Simons trending on Twitter- a sure sign that something was afoot. It turns out that WWD were reporting that the Jil Sander designer was near to closing a deal to move to Dior. As with Marc Jacobs before, it seems that the final details of the contract are still being fine tuned and we've heard nothing since Tuesday. Basically, we're not holding our breath. There's no doubt that if Simons is Galliano's successor then Dior will have a very different look about it to the old days of romance and excess. Watch this space.

(image from Huffington Post)

I think we all agree that Meryl Streep is awesome and talented and generally a top lady. This week, her amazingness reached new levels as she became the oldest woman to grace the cover of American Vogue.The cover shoot coincides with the release of The Iron Lady in which Streep stars as Margaret Thatcher. From what I have read so far, Streep's performance is quite outstanding. She has already been nominated for a Golden Globe and the consensus seems to be that Streep will dominate the awards season. And if not, Vogue has already named her 'America's Greatest Actress'.

This week, the shortlist for this year's Vogue Fashion Fund was announced. I find this a fascinating award because it is one of the only ways for designers to bridge the gap once they've left the likes of NewGen but before they become big businesses. It is a sad fact that due to keeping up with production demands, many designers do not then have the funds to grow again. The Vogue Fashion Fund has provided investment in the past for Christopher Kane and Erdem. They can use the fund to recruit new members of staff and move to better premises. Basically, it's the missing rung on the ladder. The only problem is that there can only be one winner so when the nominees include Peter Pilotto, Jonathan Saunders, Mary Katrantzou and Roksanda Illinic the job of the panel is unenviable. We'll find out who wins in February when the March edition of Vogue is out.

Jonathan Saunders SS12 (Image from www.lloyd-evans.com)

Roksanda Illincic with models at her SS12 show (image from www.lloyd-evans.com)

Today, Phoebe English was announced as the winner of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award. She will get her own full show at the Fashion Scout venue during fashion week in February. Phoebe makes beautiful clothes with an element of deconstruction. I've had my eye on her for her while now. Phoebe was previously a VFS 'One to Watch'. Big congratulations!

As the FashEd told you earlier, today is Christmas Jumper Day in our office. I feel like we are part of an obsession this year with making Christmas as anti-fashion (the more anti-fashion the more fashionable) as possible. Hence the Christmas jumper which was regarded as unbelievably naff and embarrassing gaining fashion points. Marc Jacobs has got in on all this naffness by asking his fans to send him their awkward family portraits, quite possibly inspired by all those 70s pictures of big families all in matching jumpers and scarves knitted by Grandma. Due to the relative coolness of his fans. most of the pictures posted so far are quite nice. So, I took it upon myself to find some truly awkward examples of the genre...

More gems can be found here

Two significant pieces of fashion business related news to report in brief now: firstly, Hermes, which is one of the very few luxury houses not to have been taken over by big investors, has secured a future free from takeover by creating a holding company which now owns 50.2% of the business. Yesterday, Michael Kors went public on the New York stock exchange. By the end of the day, the company's stock price had risen from the initial listing of $20 to $24.20 which is really very impressive.

If you thought models spent so much time travelling around the world that they would not get much time to attend to such things as home decoration then think again. Agyness Deyn's New York apartment is up for sale for $2.5 million. The pictures show an eclectic space which reminds me of a modern version of Diana Vreeland's apartment. We are particularly loving her Under the Sea bedroom...

A couple of sales to alert you to now...

Rainbowwave will be having a sample sale today (from 6 til 9) and tomorrow (from 12 til 3). Highly covetable brands like J.Brand, Husam El Odeh, J.W Anderson and Peter Pilotto will be on offer. It takes place at 146 Royal College Steeet, NW1 OTA (in London, sorry to any of you further afield)...you know you want to!

Circus 11 is on right now (until Sunday) at The Tramshed, 32, Rivington Street, EC2A 3LX. This is a unique kind of shopping experience. Shopping theatre. You can pick up all kinds of wonderful things from fashion to homeware to, er taxidermy. Tomorrow, Susie from StyleBubble will also be selling her wares.

One of the loveliest sustainable fashion companies about, Goodone, have also begun their seasonal sale with some brilliant discounts available. My favourites are the silk shirts and the blanket coat.

Finally, fashion film of the week award goes to L.Ady Dior. It's the fourth film which Marion Cotillard has starred in for the brand. Good fun and sunshine and satire of the L.A film star stereotype.

ADVENT DAY 16: FEELING FINE

2011-12-16T12:25:00.003Z

By Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Jumper, by Fine Collection ,
When I checked, there were some left!

This Autumn/Fall has seen the re-popularisation of jumpers as fashion staples. So enthused are people about them that the fashion for them has overspilled into an ocean of nostalgia for novelty festive sweaters. As I write every single person in the office from which I pen this blog is wearing a Christmas Jumper. Lets flip back to fashion sweaters for a moment. Regular readers of this blog will know that in addition to fashion journalism for Grazia, POP, this blog and occasional forays into newsprint, the other string to my bow is as a trend and fashion consultant. I knew waay back in March 2011 that we would all be loving sweaters now. So since March I've had it in my mind that I wanted the "perfect sweater". In October after months of searching, and purchasing a few vintage duds, I found THE sweater at Austique, an independent fashion boutique in Marylebone. At first glance said sweater, from new brand Fine Collection, is an unremarkable waffle knit with droopy proportions. On the body it is a different story. The proportions are flattering; I chuck it on over shirts, blouses or dresses and it is a chic as.. Everyone asks where its from, and now you know! The label is French and designed by Ugo Bensoussan. Scroll down for entertaining and slightly surreal shenanigans.....

Long cardigan, by Fine Collection

SURREAL TIMES...

“Since I don't smoke, I decided to grow a mustache - it is better for the health. However, I always carried a jewel-studded cigarette case in which, instead of tobacco, were carefully placed several mustaches, Adolphe Menjou style. I offered them politely to my friends: "Mustache? Mustache? Mustache? Nobody dared to touch them. This was my test regarding the sacred aspect of mustaches.” Salvador Dali

I found Marcel this morning. I LOVE Marcel. Marcel has millions of fans. She reminds me very much of my friend Brix. Only Brix doesn't sleep on slices of bread....

Directed by Dean Fleischer-Camp
Written by Dean Fleischer-Camp + Jenny Slate
Starring Jenny Slate as Marcel

ITS RAINING TODAY

2011-12-16T09:56:00.001Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

I'm doing some creative research into how I'd like my redesigned website to look come next Spring when we relaunch. While meandering around online this morning I came across this film by the L.A based artist and sculptor Allison Schulnik, and was uttterly transfixed. It is brilliant, beautiful and sad but ultimately uplifting because someone created this, and that is a great thing. RIP Christopher Hitchins.

Credits:
Film by Allison Schulnik
Cinematography by Helder K. Sun.
"It's Raining Today" written by Noel Scott Engel, performed by Scottt Walker

ADVENT DAY 15: OH, PRETTY DAY!

2011-12-15T14:53:00.004Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large.

It may be cold outside but there's nothing like a ice cream sweet new Louis Vuitton advert to brighten the day. After the merry-go-round setting of the SS12 show, the location for the ad campaign had to be equally evocative of innocent, childish fun times. And where better to go after a fairground visit than for a knickerbockerglory... And so Steven Meisel and Marc Jacobs chose an ice cream parlour as the setting for the campaign which only strengthens the message we got from the show- that is, you can't get too saccharine for Spring this year. The sweeter and prettier the better.

Image from fashiongonerogue.com

The models, a blonde and a brunette, are Daria Strokous and Kati Nescher. Both walked in the show back in October.Jacobs told WWD 'It is all very soft and very sweet, yet at the same time very bold and very graphic'. That boldness surely comes from the absolute commitment to sweetness which this collection, and these ads, show. There is also a lot of humour too, from the models' playful poses to the desserts waiting to be eaten. But there is still structure coming from those signature boxy jackets and, of course, the accessories. Oh Marc, you're clever!

Backstage at LV SS12 (Image from lloyd-evans.com)

Today's advent choice is a direct consequence of waking up to these images. I've always hankered after a Pashley bicycle and the Vuitton ads bring that wish back to the front of my mind. Apart from one of those Speedy or Lockit bags, a pink Pashley Poppy is possibly the perfect accompaniment to a Vuitton-like SS12 outfit. I say 'like' because I can guarantee that for those of us who can't quite buy into Marc's vision directly, there will be a wealth of choice on the high street for making your own version pastel-y loveliness. The Pashley will take you from fairground to ice cream parlour very nicely, without ruining the fantasy.

Pashley Poppy in Blush Pink £450

Louis Vuitton sent us these pictures showing some of the latest celebrities showing off their SS12 Vuitton. Although the dresses look beautiful, in a real life setting so much of that sorbet sugariness is taken away that these pieces take on a whole new vibe in my eyes. So basically, you can wear your LV SS12 on a Pashley in the sunshine, ice cream in hand. Or contrast its the lightness with a night time film premiere/ party- the choice is yours...

The ever elegant Cate Blanchett

The ever sweet Elle Fanning


Olivia Wilde (images courtesy of Louis Vuitton)

Today's quote and video come from the most sugarly sweet character there ever was...

'Practically perfect in every way' Mary Poppins

ADVENT DAY 14: ELIZABETH TAYLOR JEWELS

2011-12-14T16:00:00.002Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large.

(Image from vogue.com)

Last night in New York, Elizabeth Taylor's collection of jewellery was auctioned. The £13million estimate was surpassed in spectacular fashion, the final total coming to £74.9 million, a proportion of which will go to The Elizabeth Taylor AIDS Foundation. As is always the way with the auctioning of celebrities' possessions, their value cannot be determined by carat charts or knowledge of the craftsmanship and rarity of the components. There is the star factor which is volatile and dependant upon who turns up on the day. Yesterday, buyers were clearly out not just to buy treasure, but the treasure of one of the greatest film stars ever.

The Taj Mahal diamond, given to Taylor by Burton on her 40th birthday in 1972

I have been captivated by the way this auction denotes the end of the material existence of the legend that is The Life of Elizabeth Taylor. Her jewellery collection (along with her eight marriages) meant that she was not just an actress but an almost unhuman, mythical figure, like Helen of Troy or even Cleopatra, whom she portrayed so famously in the 1963 film. It's funny how just a few rocks can have that effect on a person but the pieces she owned were, or became, part of the history of glamour, previously dominated by queens, princesses and aristocrats. Now though, in our more socially and economically mobile age anybody can rise from obscurity to myth, and that is exactly what happened to Elizabeth Taylor.

(Image from karipearls.com)

The evening's most profitable item was La Peregrina pearl which has its origins in the 16th century. It was sold for £7.6 million last night. The pearl was purchased for Taylor by her most famous lover Richard Burton in 1969. He paid £23,800 for it. Elizabeth succeeded the likes of Mary Tudor and Queen Isabel to the ownership of the jewel.

La Peregrina, mounted on a Cartier necklace commisioned by Taylor, image from Vogue.com

The diamond ring, another gift from Burton, which Taylor wore almost every day right up to her death (Image from graziadaily.co.uk)

Image from vogue.com

Taylor made her jewels her own, imbuing them with her own brand of legend. £5.7million was paid last night for the Elizabeth Taylor diamond ring. I can imagine that in 2211, the legend of the day, whoever that might be, could be the proud owner of the Elizabeth Taylor diamond, that name adding the kind of resonance which that of a royal from yesteryear might now.

And so to today's advent treat. I COULD show you a piece of Taylor's haute couture, which will be auctioned tonight. But I decided on a kinder option. This necklace is a completely beautiful piece of costume jewellery which will probably turn heads just as much as a Liz Taylor multimillion pound pieces (as long as you're not at a Royal Banquet or The Oscars), however it doesn't necessitate the constant presence of a security guard.

Parade necklace, £315 at Swarovski.com

'I introduced Liz to beer, she introduced me to Bulgari' Richard Burton

The video below is the trailer for the film Cleopatra. I love how it alludes to the fact that the film has been much hyped and discussed, probably because of the romance between the film's stars.

ADVENT DAY 12 AND 13: ALL THE FUN OF THE FAUX FUR

2011-12-13T19:09:00.000Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large.

First of all I must apologise for the woeful lack of Advent post yesterday- we are working on a big spread for Grazia's end of year double issue special next week and the day just ran away before advent could be attended to. So, to make up for it we have a double whammy of advent goodies for you today and both of them are cheap and fabulous!

Orange trapper hat £20 River Island

Muffler £20 ASOS

I'm a sucker for some fab faux fur, to the point that I was confronted by anti- fur activist at the station a couple of weeks ago when I was wearing one of my favourite coats made of the stuff. I had to show him the label before he could be persuaded that my coat was not the real deal. So, today's picks are not even trying to look real. They will bring a pop of colour to your Christmas outfits. The muffler would make me feel like a little Russian princess while the orange trapper just tips over my usual boundaries of crazy, but it's Christmas so why not?

While I'm feeling Princess-y...

'Years of dreams just can't be wrong!' Anastasia

I can't believe we've held off until now to play you this song...

FASHION STAPLE: THE BEST JEANS NOW

2011-12-12T14:22:00.004Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large
My first weekend job was as a denim grader for the vintage store Rokit. I've written about this here before, and I'm am planning a trip back to Rokit HQ in the New Year to see how its done today (probably not that differently, I'm guessing). During my subsequent decade and a half as a fashion writer and editor I've seen denim trends come, go and return again albeit utilising lighter more technical fabrics as befits the digital age. The current trends for coloured denim, skinny cuts and ripped up micro shorts mirror early 90s fashion pretty much to a tee. (The 90s are resonating now in music, fashion, protests, recession, even ecstasy is back in favour as a club drug.)
Through all of this I have been constantly evolving my taste in jeans and moving from one brand allegiance to another. Its quite a monogamous relationship I have with brands, I'm loyal with them until we split up; but it looks like I'm about to start an affair...
Apart from an ill-fated detour to Wrangler, the last few years belong to J Brand. I have moved through their Love Story flare to the skinny crop Bardot and combat style Houlihan. I'm now wearing the J Brand 811 candy pink jeans as much as is decent without being accused of being a style slut. The store, or rather I should say, the person who has seen me through all of this faddery, always on top of what is happening in the world of stylish denim, is Donna Ida Thornton owner of the denim boutique Donna Ida.

Hello Donna Ida Thornton!

Hello my J Brand 811 in Shocking Pink, £205

Donna is a dynamo. A ball of sunny Australian energy. She is a woman who refuses to call her husband Bobby by his first name "because its boring." So she calls him "Bobby Dazzler" instead. You've got to warm to a woman like that. When I first met her back in 2007 she had one boutique. Now she has four situated in all of London's Yummy Mummy enclaves, but this should not be held against her. I use her website Donnaida.com to buy replacements to existing jeans in my collection once I've worn them out. Recently, though, I've changed dress size, allowing myself to inflate to a size 10 after a decade as a size 8. In a battle between face or body, face wins. So now I have new denim needs: they need to slim my thigh and be high waisted so as not to emphasise hips. The leg cut has to be slim in order to create the impression of longer legs, and look cool as well as ultra flattering and subtle enough to befit the term "style staple".

I trust Donna, so along I went to her Elizabeth Street store (London, SW1), and she gave me the treatment. Namely Donna hustled me into a changing room and then stood outside passing in jeans from labels I know about, but have never tried or worn. The first was MiH, or Made in Heaven, a British brand which is the darling of fashionable women everywhere. The cut of the "Paris" jean was too square for me and made me look like I had bloky hips. Next she passed in leather J Brand jeans, which to my horror cost £875. They didn't fit me too well either. Apparently Donna sold 25 pairs of them the day they launched on the DonnaIda.com website. The other pair of J Brands I tried was the Jodphur, below, essentially a jean with a knee panel that flatters the leg shape. These were a contender until...

J Brand jodphur in burgundy, £265

...Donna passed me in a pair of navy jeans by an Australian brand called Nobody out of Melbourne. I pulled them on, wriggled them up past my hips, zipped them up, and bejeezus if these were not the exact pair of my dreams! They instantly felt like a second skin, and did everything I needed them to do. I looked slim, leggy, with a feminine curved rear (not some flat shapeless butt), and I knew Donna had done it again. I would wholeheartedly recommend these jeans to everyone. I asked a younger girlfriend with a very different body shape to me to try them on also, and she loved them so much she went out the next day and bought some.

Cult of Nobody jeans, £150

J Brand have got some competition at last. I would love to hear what your style staple jeans are. What jeans do you wear that always deliver and why?

Here's a film that follows the story of the Nobody jean factory in Melbourne.

I like how the factory is so oldschool. I wonder if the blokes behind Nobody know just how damn good their "Cult of Nobody" jeans is? With a name like that, I guess they do.

I also tried on:

Hudson Nico in Python £225
J Brand 901 Leather in Black £875

Goldsign Misfit Jeans Position £280

MiH Jeans Paris Union Navy £160

American Retro Betty Tee Lace £200

www.donnaida.com

ADVENT DAY 11: MIAOW WEDGES

2011-12-11T16:21:00.002Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Tessa Wedges £625 by Charlotte Olympia

There is something about Christmas which seems to make it OK to add a comic element to our outfits. I am actually all for this year round. Animals are my favourite; you will often find me wearing owls/ horses/ fish, usually in jewellery form, somewhere about my person. Charlotte Olympia, with her kitty faced slippers, heels and wedges, has done a fine job of be-catting the feet of even the most non-humorous of fashion consumers. I've spotted many a lady in a classic black jacket, perfect blow dry, beige trousers and, incongrousouly yet perfectly, velvety shoes with cats peeping out from above.

Charlotte Olympia designer Charlotte Dellal in her Tessa wedges (image from coolspotters.com)

These Tessa wedges are the ultimate in humorous luxury. So many mega wedges now just remind me too much of a stripper shoe to face wearing myself. But those sweet whiskers and pointy ears have so much of the kitten obsessed little girl about them that they could not possibly belong to a woman who is dressing just to look 'sexy'. These are shoes for girls.

Having struggled through T.S Eliot's The Waste Land, it's always a comfort to remember that he also penned 'Old Possum's Book of Practical Cats', a set of poems, with lots of excellent words, which gives cats lives and personalities and which was eventually turned into 'Cats!' by Andrew Llloyd Webber. The below is from 'The Naming of Cats'.

'But I tell you, a cat needs a name that's particular,

A name that's peculiar, and more dignified,

Else how can he keep up his tail perpendicular,

Or spread out his whiskers, or cherish his pride?'

And another famous literary cat, as interpreted by Tim Burton...

ADVENT DAY 10: THE ELVES AND MANOLO

2011-12-10T20:19:00.001Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

The fairytale can be yours here, for £8.95

Camilla Morton is a wonderfully creative, exquisitely eccentric fashion writer who I have known for ever as we started out in our careers at the same time. Camilla has successfully made a name for herself as a fashion author, and I LOVE how she has reinvented the classic fairytales dovetailing them with the stories of modern day fashion designers careers.

“I am enchanted by how clothes make you feel, and the people behind it,” says Morton. “Because sometimes the magic and the art of creation gets forgotten in the rush to find the next big thing.” of course she is so right, and Camilla makes magic of Manolo's story as well as reminding me of one of my favourite fairy tales from the Brothers Grimm.

The book is packed with Manolo's signature vibrant illustrations, (above) depicting scenes from his life - his glamorous mother making her own shoes to combat wartime restrictions in style; an inspiring visit to the Theatre de Paris to watch Romy Schneider and Alain Delon and his now legendary meeting US Vogue editor Diana Vreeland who instructed Manolo to focus on footwear. Diana was instrumental in making his career.

"I would have gotten away with it, too, if it wasn't for you meddling kids."

Scooby Doo Villain (Hanna Barbera)

Couldn't revisit The Elves and the Shoemaker without a look at a Hanna Barbera 1980s retelling of the tale. This is the TV of my youth. It doesn't get better. (Or schmaltzier.)

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 5th DECEMBER-9th DECEMBER

2011-12-09T17:59:00.002Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

We are getting massively overexcited about Christmas here at FEAL HQ today, with plans for a Christmas jumper competition in full swing and festive songs blaring out- I've already heard Mariah Carey's 'All I Want for Christmas' approximately 15 times today. However, the world of fashion does not stop for mulled wine and mince pies just yet... Here's the week's news.

Yesterday, the winner's of the NEWGEN sponsorship for AW12 were announced. The FashEd was on the panel and is very excited about seeing the winners' shows and presentations come February. This is how the line-up looks for the ladies...

Backstage at David Koma SS12. Neon plus Maori tattoos= amazing. Image from (lloyd-evans.com)

Catwalk sponsorship:

David Koma
Holly Fulton
J.JS Lee
J.W. Anderson
Michael van der Ham
Simone Rocha

Presentation sponsorship:

Christopher Raeburn
Thomas Tait

Installation sponsorship:

Nasir Mazhar
SISTER by SIBLING

Exhibition sponsorship:

Huishan Zhang
James Long
Lucas Nascimento
Palmer//Harding
Tim Soar Woman

Gaga in Rocha SS12 (Image from thinkboutthings.com)

Simone Rocha's SS12 collection was greeted with rapturous responses from the fashion media. In the January issue of ELLE magazine, Lady Gaga continues to showcase Rocha's designs (she was wearing a different SS12 piece in London last week). I went to J.JS Lee's presentation at the last LFW and am still thinking about her candy floss inspirations. So the Simone Rocha/ J.JS Lee back-to-back show in February will be penned in ink on our schedule. The FashEd calls the duo 'London's Young Minimalists'.

Image from style.com

While we are still obsessing about Florence in a shell and October's Under the Sea themed show in general, Mr Lagerfeld has moved on swiftly; on Tuesday he unveiled his Paris-Bombay collection for pre-fall at the Grand Palais, transformed from pearlescent sea bed to Maharajah banquet. Pre-fall and resort collections have been touted as the place to find wearable, commercial pieces but Lagerfeld's take on Indian dress poo poos on that idea. However, this DOES show a streak of genius because India is one of the biggest emerging markets for luxury retailers so appealing to them is very shrewd. The beauty which results is a pleasing addition. Sam McKnight worked on the hair for the show and told Vogue that he was inspired by 'Sadhu Holy Men and Rajastani Princesses'

Images from Sam McKnight on Vogue.com

We've been poring over Helmut Newton images all week- look out for more on our Tumblr later. So it was fitting that today we got a peek at the shots which will grace Pirelli's 2012 calendar. Ok, so it's basically lots of models with beautiful bodies, which is something in itself after news came this week that some clothes are now being advertised on digitally created bodies, yes we're talking to you H&M. Lisa Armstrong argues that these pictures are all about promoting a body perfect enough for porn. I agree- especially given that they're for Pirelli, thus blatantly targeted at blokes. But I cannot help but appreciate these images of Kate Moss (who looks divine, but has roundness where many models do not) and Saskia de Brauw. What do you think?

Saskia de Brauw (images from daily mail)

Those McQueen skullcaps seem to have captured the imagination of cover stylists for January. I know I've already mentioned Gaga in Elle but not only is she rocking Rocha but McQueen is the star of the front cover. Gaga is bedecked in the coral gown and eye mask. Meanwhile, Rooney Mara is fully skull-capped for Dazed and Confused. Quite beautiful...

January Dazed, image from www.racked.com

Gaga by Matt Irwin (from fashiongonerogue.com)

They say that economic downturns can be good for some. Given all the pre-sale discounts, you'd think that retail wasn't one of them. On the whole, I don't think it is but there's always one.... and it had to be Mulberry. The luxury accessories company reported a 62% increase in profits to £72m. We can see why too; the firm which originated in Somerset has fashion appeal. Editors and celebrities flock to the LFW show which always has an elaborate theme which is hyped weeks before when invites are sent out and they are so amazing that everyone tweets pictures of them. But Mulberry also has a more classic customer base which is attracted by its sturdily made pieces. A visit to the store could provide a tan saddle bag or purple python piece of arm candy. Somehow, the two sit very happily together. It probably helps that the Princess of Selling Clothes, Kate Cambridge/ Middleton has been spotted many times over the years with a Mulberry accessory. Most recently, setting off for Canada with a navy Polly Push Pocket. Then last week, she wore (yawn, sorry, you've probably heard it all before) Mulberry's teal tea dress to meet key members of the media at Buckingham Palace. With that seal of approval, we don't expect to see profits plummeting anytime soon.

Celebrity and witty design has proven a money spinning combination for Mulberry, illustrated here as Emma Hill, Creative Director poses with Kristen Stewart and Kate (image from elle.com)

Tippi Hedren in The Birds (image from tvrage.com)

You know by now that I find it hard to resist putting up pictures of old school movie stars once in a while. Happily, the news that Sienna Miller will play Hitchcock heroine Tippi Hedren in a new film about the director's obsession with her, is a perfect excuse for another.

Finally, if you'e ever wondered how 12 models are shot for 12 pictures for the world's most famous calendar then watch on...

ADVENT DAY NINE: THE NEW T

2011-12-09T15:56:00.001Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

American Retro lace T-shirt (with 30% off) £140

Today I bring you a modern and elegant lace T-Shirt by the French brand American Retro. T-shirts made using luxury fabrics are big fashion news for Spring/Summer 2012. They form a key component of "New Easy" one of the biggest themes to emerge from of the catwalk shows. Basically if its easy to pull-on and wear, it's in. The twist is the garment which could be a simple T-shirt, tank, jogger shaped trousers, shift dress or little flared skirts are all created with luxury fabrics and often in highly decorative form with embroideries, sequins, digital prints, or simply great textiles. It is great to see a move away from the obsession with decades as reference. This new mood in fashion is a marriage of the divine and the practical to create something fresh and modern.

The American Retro T-Shirt is from DonnaIda.com

"I loathe narcissism, but I approve of vanity"

Diana Vreeland

I leave you now with a slice of beauty and heart-wrenching sadness from the ever-wonderful natural history department of the BBC. The show Frozen Planet finished airing in Britain this week, for our international readers YOU HAVE TO SEE IT. This short video is the talk of Twitter today.

ADVENT DAY EIGHT: ANYA'S PIECE OF CHRISTMAS MAGIC

2011-12-08T19:18:00.000Z

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Valorie Glitter Clutch- £350 at Matches

The FashEd and I were stopped in our tracks today as we browsed in Matches and were bedazzled by this Anya Hindmarch festive clutch. Anya does have a knack of creating these need-it-now accessories. She seems to consistently be able to produce a new purse or trinket or bag which the ladies who love her will keep coming back for, even if it's only a slight tweak on what came before. Basically, we see this bag and we think 'That will be just the cherry I need on my sartorial christmas cake'.

And we can't show you red glitter without bringing in The Wizard of Oz... How tragic is this quote from Tinman?

'Now I know I have a heart, because it's breaking' Tinman in Wizard of Oz

And Judy Garland as Dorothy fighting with The Wicked Witch over the original red glitter accessory.....

ADVENT DAY SEVEN: CHRISTMAS CHEZ CHANEL

2011-12-07T17:08:00.002Z

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Chanel skis £2480 (call 0207 493 5040)

I would love to tell you that in a couple of weeks, these skis and I will be off to spend days attached to one another, speeding through fresh snow and 'earning' copious amounts of mulled wine and hot chocolate. But that is mere fantasy. A girl can dream and Chanel skis are not such a bad place to begin. Although perhaps an actual skiing lesson would be more appropriate. I get the feeling that for those who do take to the pistes, it is just as much about the chic-ness of the attire as it is about the mastery of the black run. And I know that with these powering me along, I would be far more inclined to put in the necessary graft.

I do wish that Mr Lagerfeld would make a ski film- the Chanel monchromes couldn't ask for a more perfect setting than a pristine mountain top. However, he did make 'The Tale of a Fairy' to showcase the label's 2012 Cruise offering which is in store now. The short film stars many Lagerfeld (and FEAL) favourites including Amanda Harlech, Kristen McMenamy and Freja. The Cruise collection's traditional function, to provide the winter holidaying rich with an appropriate wardrobe, could easily be turned on its head to encompass the ultimate skiwear, and apres-ski, pieces couldn't it Karl? Maybe next year?

'If you've never seen an elephant ski, you've never

been on acid' Eddie Izzard

ADVENT DAY SIX: DOMINUS DOMINIC

2011-12-06T15:14:00.001Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Dangling Cross earrings, £230, made from 23 carat gold plated brass. At Net-a-Porter

I adore Dominic Jones and his jewellery. I've known him since he's started out and remember really clearly being at the launch of the milliner Steven Jones' perfume for Comme des Garcons at Dover Street Market in 2009 and chatting with a boy who dyed his hair grey who was telling me all about how he wanted to make designer jewellery accessible to his own age group by using non-precious metals as a base. That was the beginning of my friendship with the talented Mr Jones, who I swiftly put on the pages of Grazia. Probably a bit too swiftly, as the shops he had sold to hadn't taken delivery of his talon earrings and claw rings thast became an instant hit. It has all turned out really well. Dom is an original talent and his creative output has improved season on season. These "Dangling Cross" earrings are edgily beautiful, and I sincerely hope they will be dangling from my lobes on Christmas day, The relevant family member has been informed!

"We can play it safe, or play it cool, follow the leader, or make up all the rules, whatever you want, the choice is yours, so choose.." Beth Ditto, The Gossip, from "Music For Men" Track 1: Heavy Cross

This is Dominic's Autumn/fall Winter 2011 fashion film, starring his old friend Florence Welch.

ADVENT DAY 5: IT'S NOT CHRISTMAS WITHOUT THE JUMPER

2011-12-05T16:45:00.003Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Snowman jumper £50 from TopShop

Not so long ago, The Christmas Jumper was little more than the attire worn by the most embarrassing middle aged male at your family gathering on 25th December. It was definitely not Fashion. But now thanks to a heady mixture of irony and nostalgia, as well as The Killing, Colin Firth and Raf Simons, The Christmas Jumper has become one of the most lusted after winter pieces. The more nerdy your knit, the cooler you are. Naturally, Topshop have got in on the act. Their selection feature penguins, reindeer and, our favourite, snowmen. Luckily, the knit is a bit finer and the look a little more refined that a truly70s itchfest.

Today's chosen quote comes from the FashEd's favourite Christmas jumper wearer, Val Doonican. He strikes me as being quite representative of the original embarrassing bloke types, especially given the one and only quote which is attributed to him. Read it imagining a red faced, guffawing, beer-bellied, sherry drinker and you'll realise how far the humble festive jumper has come...

'Golf is like an 18-year-old girl with big boobs. You know it's wrong but you can't keep away from her'

And we couldn't have a snowman jumper POST without providing you with Howard Blake's Walking in the Air from The Snowman.

ADVENT DAY 4: OPEN THE DOOR ON THE WORLD OF CARINE

2011-12-04T18:37:00.000Z

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Carine's Irreverent £42 at Amazon

It's the fashion book of the year from former French Vogue Editor Carine Roitfeld. This tome is full of fabulous photos, anecdotes and mementoes from her career thus far as well as intimate pictures with her family and friends. We think anybody who loves fashion would regret not having this close to hand.

'Fashion is all about happiness. It's fun. It's important. But it's not medicine' Donatella Versace

Lady Gaga's new video is so many things, on so many levels... but she does confirm that 'mint green is gonna be huge next season'... Her 13-minute long Marry The Night Video really needs a Sunday-like time void to be properly viewed.

ADVENT DAY THREE: FREJA DARLING

2011-12-02T16:57:00.002Z

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Valentino dress £2245 at Net-a- Porter

Freja Beha Erichsen is a girl after my own heart. When it comes to style what she likes, I like. Case in point is this beautiful Valentino dress currently available on Net-a-Porter, and which Freja chooses for her Christmas wishlist. I'm a great admirer of the work of Pier Paolo Piccioli (PPP) and Maria Grazia Chiuri (MGC) who have reinvented the Valentino look for the 21st Century. When I interveiwed PPP and MGC for POP Magazine last year both were beyond delighted that Freja was set to become the face of the brand. "We want a modern girl who is beautiful but with something unexpected about her." The two make a perfect couple.

"I love lesbians. My best friends are all lesbians. It's very easy for people to live as lesbians. Men don't dislike women, why should women dislike women?" - Karl Lagerfeld

In this year-old film Freja comes across as extremely intelligent, self contained and far more mature than her modelling persona suggests.