THE WEEK IN FASHION: MAY 14th-18th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Happy Friday fashion lovers. Welcome to this week's news round-up...

Donna Summer working the sequins in Thank God It's Friday (image from telegraph.co.uk)

We begin with farewells to the Queen of Disco, Donna Summer who died yesterday at just 63 years old. If you want to know why Summer's dance tunes were so seminal then you could do no better than to read Alex Needham's analysis for The Guardian. Of course, music and fashion so often go hand-in-hand and Donna Summer's psychedelic eye shadow, mega watt hair do and slinky gowns revved up the glamour vibe of her disco tunes. A true game changer.

Donna Summer, off duty but disco as ever (image from dailymail.co.uk)

May I suggest you listen to this mesmerising tune while you read the rest of the news?



In happier news, the Roitfeld dynasty this week welcomed its latest member, Romy Nicole Konjic. Carine Roitfeld's daughter Julia gave birth to her first baby with Swedish model Robert Konjic. And what more stylish way to have one's birth announced than via a tweet from Mr Derek Blasberg who tweeted on Wednesday 'Congratulations to proud Momma @RestoinRJulia! (And thus, the chicest grannie ever: Carine Roitfeld!) Can't wait to meet the beautiful baby!" It was later confirmed that the former French Vogue editor's new grandchild was a girl.  Might little Romy make her modelling debut in Granny's new magazine, set to be released in the Autumn?

Julia and Romy the bump in the latest iD (image from fashionologie.com)

British fashion stamps: Norman Hartnell (image from guardian.co.uk)

Ever since e-mail, tweeting, face booking and texting became our main modes of communication, the humble letter or post card has taken on a special, sort of nostalgic feeling. Now the Royal Mail is appealing to the scribe in fashionistas everywhere with their new collection of stamps celebrating post-war British fashion. The stamps include outfits by key British designers from the past 60 years including Ossie Clark, Vivienne Westwood and the Queen's favourite Hardy Amies. The stamps have been shot by acclaimed fashion photographer Sølve Sundsbø. You can buy the full set for a bargainous £6 here.

British fashion stamps: Alexander McQueen (image from guardian.co.uk)

British fashion stamps: Ossie Clark and Celia Birtwell (image from guardian.co.uk)

Congratulations to the brilliant Selfridges which was this week named the world's best department store by The Intercontinental Group of Department Stores. I feel like I'm going to be spending lots of time in Selfridges this summer as they have so many exciting celebrations in store for the Jubilee and Olympics. I went to the launch of Brittanica, an exhibition of dresses made from Vogue patterns from the early 50s with hats by Stephen Jones last week. That's on until 24th June. But there's plenty more to come... tea parties on the roof, crazy golf and a shop where you can buy everything the Queen has- her bag, her gloves, her dog (maybe?). Find out the details here.

A pic we took at the Britannica launch

When Vogue put Adele on the cover last year, there was considerable controversy about how a non-model sized person had been presented by the magazine. In fact, it seemed like there such a hoo-ha that the issue should surely have been a big seller. Well, no. Alexandra Shulman revealed in a talk this week that the Adele cover was actually one of the worst sellers ever. In fact, Shulman says she still can't tell which covers will be the most successful, despite twenty years at the helm.

An interesting new angle on the great skinny models debate this week, with a new study which suggests that if models resembled the target audience of the products they were advertising better, then consumers would  be more inclined to make a purchase. Ben Barry, who conducted the study, explained:

"My study found that women increased their purchase intentions by more than 200 percent when the models in the mock ads were their size. In the subgroup over size 6, women increased their purchase intentions by a dramatic 300 percent when they saw curvier models. Conversely, when women saw models who didn't reflect their size, they decreased their purchase intentions by 60 percent, and women over size 6 dropped their purchase intentions by 76 percent."

N.B These sizes refer to the American system so size 6 is size 10. 

Estee Lauder in 1961 (from smh.com.au)

There are plenty of family businesses started by one member and then handed from generation to generation to carry on the philosophy carved out by the founding member. One such company is Estee Lauder, now in the hands of Aerin, the granddaughter of the eponymous founder. However, Aerin has now decided to make a name for herself and is launching her own brand called simply, Aerin. She has long been involved at a high level at Estee Lauder but has now chosen to take inspiration from the brand's archives and gift it a modern twist with Aerin. She told WWD “It’s very much a lifestyle brand, which I think is very much how Estée started. It was always about lifestyle photography and an environment and a world. It’s not necessarily an age group — it’s a state of mind". Aerin will encompass not just beauty but jewellery and home products too. I'm looking forward to the book which will be published next Autumn. 

The Vogue family give us some more great covers this week. The French edition has chosen Gisele as their poster girl for the health issue which launches the health initiative agreed to by all the titles. The carefully placed sand marks clearly underlining the healthy but slim, fit and aspirational proportions of her posterior. The cover announces 'The Return of Curves".

Image from Fashionologie.com

The Italian titles focus on Africa with Ban Ki Moon gracing the cover of L'Uomo. I understand he's the UN Secretary General, and thus has a lot of influence when it comes to policies which might help African nations get out of debt cycles and corruption, but I'd like to have seen an actual African. 

Vogue Italia focuses on Africa (image from Guardian.co.uk)

Happy Birthday to Beyond Retro , the brilliant vintage empire which turns 10 this month. To celebrate, there is a series of gigs, talks and events. I'm hoping to make it to 'Flooded with little Joan Crawfords: Hollywood in London in the 1930s' at the Soho store tonight. Very generously, the Beyond Retro people are also hosting their first ever sale, and it's a goodie- 50% off everything. The sale is taking place over the weekend so make sure you get yourself down the Brick Lane store.

Simone Rocha at LFW AW12 (image from catwalking.com)

Simone Rocha was one of the highlights at February's London fashion week. So we'll be tuning in to SHOWstudio.com on Monday at 3pm to check out her interview on the site.

And finally, a King Karl video special to round off the working week.

The first is from Chanel and sees the designer talk about his Cruise collection which was shown at Versailles on Monday. Listen out for his thoughts on how Mademoiselle herself might have liked the offering....

And Cannes film festival is in full swing, but Lagerfeld's appearance in Jean Roch and Snoop Dog's new video puts our minds firmly in St Tropez. I adore Karl's role as the keeper of the gates to paradise/ St Tropez and the very retro cloudy, heavenly intro. 

SECRET 20% OFF SALE: OASIS FASHION ESSENTIALS

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

There's nothing better than a secret sale. Well, maybe there is.. a secret sale with a secret code takes some beating. You need to know the key, otherwise you can't get the magical reduction. I like it when stores do this kind of promo. It shows they are in touch with the fact there are savvy shoppers out there willing to go further to earn money off. Perseverance pays. Well, this week and next if you type "MAY20" into the box when you are at the Oasis online checkout you get 20% off. Simple. Oasis is a store finely tuned into the needs of the young British woman;  the English, Scottish, Irish or Welsh Rose if you like. When I think of the typically British summer fete, garden party, street party, school sports day, I think of women in the kind of smart and pretty occasion wear Oasis knows how to create. So, seeing as it is almost, allegedly, the summer, and we have the Jubilee around the corner I chose some patriotically hued prettiness with a sweet fashion edge to give you inspiration... Scroll further down to see what Bethan Holt has chosen for her top five..

Fashion Editor at Large Top Five

White lace fit and flare dress £150

Double split maxi skirt £50

Lace collar navy top  £28

Rose pendant £8

White lace shirt £38

Fashion Junior's Top Five...

I love Oasis's prints- just the right mix of trend and summery loveliness. Plus, I'm going through a tea dress obsession right now and the print on the one I've chosen is one of the best I've seen. It fits the mood without being too twee- the high street girl's alternative to Prada's postcard dresses.

Tropical jeans £48

Tan Jesus sandal £28

Scarf print shirt £60

Chintzy tea dress £85 

Bow sun hat £21

Go forth and shop, we're sure it's what the Queen would want...

SOUL TO SOLE WITH CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

The lovely Mr Louboutin (image from afanovafashion.com)

Earlier in the Spring I interviewed Christian Louboutin for Ponystep, a brilliant and fun style magazine with an irreverent and camp yet informed tone of voice. It is not a cheap purchase; £12 is a LOT to pay for a magazine - and we all do the work for Richard Mortimer, its founder and editor-in-chief (he also created BoomBox), for free because we know he can only just about afford to eat himself. As more people discover the magazine - and they are, in droves - he'll gain the ability to bring the price down.

Personally, I love how Ponystep documents the creative class together with pop and club culture in a big crazy soup of glossy pages. Its not everyday you see One Direction a shiny page away from a gay fetish-obsessed architect and trangender porn stars. But then, as a woman who spent most of her 20s hanging out in gay clubs, I appreciate a bit of diversity.

Which brings me onto Christian Louboutin, a designer and man I have a huge respect for, mainly because, after celebrating 20 years in business, and a massively successful one at that, he is still independent and has never sold out to the big boys for cash. Mr Louboutin has personal and creative integrity and is not afraid to stand up for himself, a David in a world of Goliaths.

The amazing "Pigalle Flat" £635 from Christian Louboutin

He gave a startlingly honest interview, to the point that he called me afterwards and asked me not to put some stuff in which was too personal and emotionally raw (I had tears in my eyes a few times), and if you don't know, he is also in the middle of a trademark case with PPR, the conglomerate which owns Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga. An Yves Saint Laurent shoe design incorporated a red sole into its design, something he rightly took huge exception to - if you know a Louby shoe, you also know they famously have pillar-box red soles.

Piou Piou £495 from Christian Louboutin 

The case is still ongoing. But one thing he said that didn't make it into the final edit has stayed with me, and it should be the way all designers operate... "You know I respect people. Sometimes you are designing things and you look closely and you think it looks too much like something of a certain designer. If I see that in my work then I immediately erase it, so it’s not even talking about logos or signatures of different brands. I would never approach that type of thing, never. Also, your work is about creating. You have to have your brain functioning rather than just copying, you know? You can’t be in both fields, you have to decide."

Loubi Zeppa £625 from Christian Louboutin

If you haven't already seen it, his exhibition currently at the design museum is wonderful and gloriously risque as well as being highly educational. If you ever wondered how a designer shoe is made, you can see it at the Design Museum. Now time to enjoy the interview....

How cute was Christian when he was younger?

SHOW AND TELL: ABOUT BOY LONDON

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

  The BOY London collaboration with my favourite T-Shirt label, Long Clothing (£40 each)

When I was 18 years old I can vividly recall the day my little sister Jennifer came home with a white leatherette BOY London baseball cap. I was so frickin annoyed because I wanted one, and now she had one I couldn't etc etc. Ah, the things we used to get upset about.

We didn't look at elitist, out-of-touch catwalk fashion in the early 1990s; our bible was The Face, our icons were other young people and the brands we connected with were ones we could relate to and afford with our pathetic recession-hit bank balance. Fast forward to today and I am an adult woman witnessing a fashion groundhog day, as BOY London is in the midst of a revival and club kids dress, look and act pretty much exactly how we used to, the only difference being the addition of Mac tech about their person.

BOY London was founded in the late 1970s by a fashion-obsessed lad about town called Stephane Raynor who was part of the Blitz Kid and New Romantic clubbing movements. By the time we found it, it had been worn by Andy Warhol, Madonna, The Pet Shop Boys, Boy George, and its shop on Old Compton Street in London's Soho always had queues outside. In the mid-late 1990s its popularity and its distinctive eagle and BOY logo had had its day.

Back in February though, a curious thing happened: BOY London relaunched with Selfridges as its premier stockist, with none other than its founder Stephane Raynor still at the creative controls, although this time around he has a decent backer. Amazingly it has been freshly discovered by Rihanna, Jessie J and Nicki Minaj as well as hipster Chloe Sevigny.

The result is, after a hiatus of more than a decade away from business, the brand and its founder has taken root again in a fertile ground of edgy pop stars, even edgier club kids and a recession hit economy that is creating its "own" street culture and affordable brand icons. The brand is red hot all over again.

After Rihanna wore the below outfit on Jonathan Ross' show last month, the Selfridges website experienced such an enormous sales spike they sold out of five key styles overnight. Why? Because the brand is affordable: the average T-shirt is £35, sweatshirt £55 and leggings £40; TopShop prices.

Of course, Jessie J, Rihanna, and Nicki Minaj didn't happen across BOY in Selfridges though: their stylists discovered it after they found the 90s vintage - if 90s stuff could officially be called, vintage which it can't - store Sick on Redchurch Street  in East London which is owned and run by none other than the bad BOY founder himself Stephane Raynor. Fashion in full cycle.

Me and my sister Jennifer in our BOY days back in 1990 ish

          

BOY LONDON BACK IN THE 80S AND 90S 

Andy Warhol in BOY 

 The Pet Shop Boys circa 1994

Pet Shop Boys 1994

        BOY LONDON IN 2012

Chloe Sevigny out and about in BOY 

Rihanna in BOY on the Jonathan Ross show a few weeks ago (via ohverlycritical.com) 

BOY London founder Stephane Raynor created this outfit for Nicki Minaj, outed for the first time last weekend. From his tagged Tumblr

Jessie J in BOY last weekend - Her sweatshirt costs £55, the leggings £40 

BOY London Leggings, £40 (the black version are sold out)

BOY London sweatshirt, £55 

            

For more information on Sick on Redchurch Street go here

What do you think of the BOY London revival? 

Go shopping for BOY at 

http://leavetheboyalone.com/




PS SORRY FOR FORMATTING - cant fix it!

MARIE ANTOINETTE FOR 2012 AT CHANEL CRUISE

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Chanel's 2012 Cruise show has literally just happened. The setting, at Versailles Palace, suggested frilly, 18th century extravagance but Mr Lagerfeld turned that on its head. He presented a raving, rebellious Marie Antoinette figure with flatforms and a blunt bob, all with edged up references to the historical setting . It reminded me of an updated version of Sofia Coppola's film with Kirsten Dunst (remember the Converse?) with more than a hint of Meadham Kirchhoff SS12.



The show apparently closed to MIA singing "Live fast, die young, bad girls do it well". A big push to shake up the classy, classic Chanel vibe then and appeal to the cool kids.

Here are some of our favourite pictures...

Cara Delevingne opening the show (from Calgary Avansino's twitter)

Tilda Swinton and Haider Ackermann (from C Passariello's Instagram/ Twitter)

Gold flatworms and flippy chambray (from C Passariello on Twitter/ Instagram)

The scene at vVersailles this afternoon (image from C Passariello's instagram/ Twitter)

Saskia with blue bob (image from Cindy Leive's Instagram/ Twitter

King Karl himself (image from C Passariello on Instagram/ Twitter)

Dustcoats, bows and more flatforms (image from Jennifer Bazaar's Twitter/ Instagram

Frills (image from Jennifer Bazaar/ Instagram)

Joan Smalls (Vogue Paris twit pic)

Sunhats and bows (Vogue Paris twit pic)