Friday, 4 November 2011

THE WEEK IN FASHION: OCTOBER 31st- NOVEMBER 4th

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Another week has gone by in the wonderful world of fashion, so here are all the stories which have caught our eye this weeek...

Tate Liverpool's Alice in Wonderland exhibition begins today and that theme seems to fit in perfectly with some of SS12's whimsical, back to childhood themes- think Christopher Kane's flower sticker coats and Meadham Kirchhoff's sugar sweet homage to girlishness.  But it seems that the exhibition offers a truly in-depth look at all the aspects of Alice's Adventures which have caused so much debate for so many years- What were Carroll's true motives? How are we to read into certain elements of the plot? If we happen to be anywhere up North before 29th January then we will definitely be dropping in for a look around. If you manage to go, do let us know how it was for you.
Alice Pleasance Liddell, the little girl said to have inspired Carrol's book. This is a picture he took in 1859, from amadelio.org
The story of the House of Fabergé is inextricably linked with the History of Europe. In 1917, Peter Carl Fabergé and his family were forced to abandon their business to flee from the Bolshevik uprising. In the ensuing events, they lost the rights to use the name upon which they had built their fortune, creating bejewelled eggs for some of the most prestgious families in Europe and Russia. However in October 2007, the House and the family were reunited once more. They are now making jewellery which heavily references the classic Fabergé with its incredible detail and use of the most intricate of techniques. Now, Mario Testino has worked alongside Carine Roitfeld, producer Camilla Johnson-Hill and Fabergé's Creative Director Katharina Flohr to create the house's first advertising campaign. Essentially, this is the tale of the most old school of brands reinventing itself for today. We might think of Fabergéas something we would see in a mueseum or a book, but maybe we should be prepared for those preconceptions to be thwarted. Their model is Bee Gee- I had to read that detail several times, I was thinking that I was about to see Maurice Gibb in an egg pendant- who apprently encompasses the Russia/ Europe relationship which Fabergé wants to enhance. If they have the Carine/ Mario power team on board, they could hardly fail, could they?
Bee Gee, decked out in jewels befitting of a Russian Grand Duchess, or Oligarch's wife
The BFC showrooms have continued their world tour, which have so far seen British designers exhibiting their SS12 colllections in Paris, LA and New York, in Hong Kong this week. They received a warm welcome from the Chinese fashion industry with Angelica Cheung, Editor of Vogue China, hosting a tea for them. Lane Crawford, one of Hong Kong's biggest department stores, also put on an in-store event followed by a big party in Victoria Harbour. All this seems proof that everywhere in the world right now, there is a buzz about British desingers and the BFC is doing a very good job of capitalising on that. Louise Gray told Vogue "It was great - I got some brilliant new stockists over there"- job done.
We can see why Louise Gray went down a treat in Hong Kong (image from Vogue.co.uk)
 We're feeling an all-new Manolo moment coming on, so the news that Blahnik is to receive the first ever lifetime achievement award at the 25th Footwear News Achievement Awards makes perfect sense. When he won Designer of the Year in the same ceremony in 1992, he said '“I do what I do and that’s it. It’s nice I make people happy. If I only do that in my life, it’s great, even if it is only a stupid pair of pumps.” Excellent news then, that Manolo will be recognised for his success in maintaining that exact aim- we take our Mary Janes off to you, Mr Blahnik!
Manolo looking extremely dapper (image from vogue.it)
 Never ones to pass up the opportunity to devour anything Chanel related, we are very excited about Karl Lagerfeld's forthcoming book which pays tribute to the Chanel tweed jacket. Carine Roitfeld has styled some of the world's best known women in the piece to celebrate the timeless quality which Coco captured back in 1926 (when her first tweed jacket was produced). Lagerfeld commented that "Transformation is the secret of survival, but never change."; a cryptic, seemingly nonsensical utterance which actually seems to make perfect sense when applied to this little bit of fashion history.
Saskia de Brauw in  her Chanel tweed (image from Telegraph.co.uk/ V Magazine)
After leaving British Vogue this Summer, it was unclear what exactly Robin Derrick's next move could be. Well, it seems that Glenda Bailey, Editor of US Harper's Bazaar has enlisted him to help revive the title she has edited for the past ten years. We're all aware that the publishing industry is a tough place to be right now and it seems that Harper's is at the coal face, having seen 4.1% decrease in the number of ad pages being bought over the past year. So it makes perfect sense that Derrick be drafted in from a title which is doing pretty well at defying the decline.
Robin, back when he was Vogue through and through (image from vogue.co.uk)
Just as we've got through the SS12 shows, we are reminded once again of the Resort collections as the campaigns are revealed. I completely loved Vuitton's Resort collection (which was done in collaboration with Sofia Coppola) but I do find the campaign a bit disappointing. Although it's NICE it could have been AMAZING given the strong Gatsby/ thirties pyjama influences of the collection. The confusion over what a Resort collection actually is shows too. At Chanel and Prada, the models look like they're off to a Christmas party, while at Gucci and Vuitton it's High Summer, confused much?! In general, these images don't feel quite as exciting as those we see for the main collections, but that's just the spoilt fashion brat in me speaking- we can't have it all, can we?
A thirties look for Saskia de Brauw at Chanel

Karmen Pedaru for Gucci

Arizona Muse for Louis Vuitton

Why have one purse, when you can have six? Lea Seydoux/ Prada

Thursday, 3 November 2011

OP ED: HYPOCRITE CHIC?

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

The protesters of OCCUPY London have been causing quite a stir since they set up camp in Paternoster Square, outside St. Paul's cathedral a few weeks ago. I must say that as a fashion journalist, I didn't really think there would be anything to report on, style wise, from the fracas. After all, from what I can gather, these people are broadly anti-capitalist, given that they claim our 'current system is undemocratic and unjust' and that would suggest to me that any kind of fashion story would involve the sandals and dreadlocks to be spotted out on the Square. That's just me stereotyping though.
 
So, I was somewhat surprised to open Monday's Evening Standard and find one of these ardent supporters of OCCUPY, Lucy McKay (aka Lucy Brisbane, apparently) modelling the latest peace sign leggings from Topshop topped with a peace sign sweater. The headline reads 'Radical Chic' and discusses all the coolest protest-appropriate fashion options.Now, if you are protesting about the inequalities which the current system operates under then I would imagine that one of your first priorities would be to not wear Topshop, given all the tax avoidance accusations regularly pointed at Phillip Green, who is surely the ultimate capitalist?

Amongst the comments beneath the article online, one person writes 'Lucy, you are wearing Topshop. Where are your morals?'. In a weak retaliation to her critics, Lucy says 'It's a fluffy fashion piece'. Is she trying to say that we can separate our fashion preferences from our political beliefs? That's an easy thing to do, but not something you might expect from a member of such a stalwart group of a few hundred who claim to be representing the best interests of 99% of us.  It may have been somewhat more understandable if Lucy had modelled some fabulous ethical fashion, made in conditions which adhere to the changes she is campaigning for.

By calling it 'fluffy fashion' Lucy hugely undermines her raison d'etre at OCCUPY London. These days the clothes we choose to wear represent a belief system. So, in the same breath as protesting against capitalism, she is personally encouraging it (and financing it) with her choice of clothes. Someone bring her a sack.   
Dame Westwood is well know for her passionate views, but does she put them before her business interests? (image from elleuk.com)
After this, I noticed that Dame Vivienne Westwood had visited the St Paul's camp to show her support. I do admire Dame Vivienne, and a lot of what she says is certainly thought provoking. But I couldn't fail to notice that she'd just got off a plane from China where she had been to launch her new shops over there. Basically, one day she was doing what every savvy business owner is doing right now, ensuring they are tapping into the vast potential of a Chinese customer base, thus growing their own business and increasing their own revenues; the next she is showing solidarity with the very people who are campaigning for a change to that very system.

I don't proclaim to be any sort of expert on any of these matters; I am very interested in politics and am concerned about  our current economic woes which often seem incomprehensibly profound and far-reaching. So I have certain sympathies with what OCCUPY seems to stand for, although nobody seems to be completely clear on exactly what that is. I am also seduced by fashion on a daily basis but know that there is a lot wrong with where we get our clothes from. Living an OCCUPY version of life is hard to envisage, but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't involve wearing Topshop or big business expansions. Lucy and Dame Vivienne are doing the cause they are allegedly supporting no favours whatsoever.

HERE IS THE OCCUPY LONDON MANIFESTO
'Occupy London stands together with occupations all over the world; we are the 99%. We are a peaceful non-hierarchical forum. We're in agreement that the current system is undemocratic and unjust. We need alternatives; you are invited to join us in debate and developing them; to create a better future for everyone'

Wednesday, 2 November 2011

GRAZIA: SHOPPER BAG MAD

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Shoppers, Shoppers EVERYWHERE (IMAGE streetpeeper.com)
In this week's Grazia, we take a look at the Shopper bag madness gripping the nation- we can barely walk ten paces without seeing another take on the super-practical bag of the moment, even if it's name is rather ironic given the current economic panic gripping Europe. After we went to press, we saw a tonne more we would have loved to include. As you can see, there is one for pretty much every mood, style and budget....



Marc by Marc Jacobs £60

A.P.C £335
Denham £170
 The ultimate purveyor of the shopper (and the one who began the whole thing) is Celine. While the first Celine version may have been super sleek and black, now they are branching out with bright colours and, dare we say this in association with anything Phoebe Philo, FUN textures, as demonstrated in the brown carpet-y version below.

The Celine Cabas £1,880

The Celine Cabas £1,880


Topshop can always be relied upon to bring us many a version of a trend; in the past week they have had a big drop of all kinds of shopper styles which are a little more justifiable than a Celine blow-out. I love the autumnal colourways of the two below,perfect for merrily swinging as you crunch your way through the leaves underfoot. 
Topshop £46


Topshop £32
GRAZIA IS OUT NOW!

Tuesday, 1 November 2011

A MCQUEEN-Y HALLOWEEN

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

It may be 24 hours after the main event, but this video puts a whole new spin on the now quite ubiquitous and much copied McQueen skull scarf. Babette Pauthier's creation takes the iconic accessory right back to its deepest, darkest roots. Prepare for a shiver down your spine and a renewed need for a silky piece of classic Lee McQueen design.

POP: PETER COPPING TALKS TO FASHED

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Among the FashEd's many guises is her role as Contributing Fashion Features Editor at POP. For the new Autumn/Winter issue, the theme was The Lady. So, it was only right that Peter Copping, Creative Director at Nina Ricci be featured, given that his collections are the epitome of ladylike prettiness. My first job as Fashion Junior was transcribing this interview, strange that such a highlight could come before I'd even made my desk my own. In my humble opinion, you cannot fail to fall in love with Copping after reading this...



Portrait of Peter Copping by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin

Photography by Ronald Dick, Fashion by Isabelle Kountoure
 POP is out now

Monday, 31 October 2011

DEAR SANTA... CAN I PLEASE HAVE A CHANEL, PRADA & MIU MIU CHRISTMAS?

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

So there might be Christmas lights going up and endless 3 for 2 offers on wrapping paper but we prefer to focus on the finer aspects of the impending festive season, namely what we dream of finding tucked under the tree on Christmas morning. But do we really dream anymore? Once you're past the age of 11, does Christmas become just a list of things to buy and do? Well, not if some of the Best Fashion Brands in the World have their way.

David Sims for Miu Miu Resort with Guinevere Van Seenus, one of the worlds best models.

Chanel, Prada and Miu Miu mostly trade on the fact that, for most people, they represent an escape from the reality of the day-to-day; I know the moment I pull on my one item of Chanel (some two-tone tights with the double C logo at the ankle) I feel lifted away like Wendy flying off to Never-Never land with Peter Pan. This is pretty much the same feeling I had opening my shiny new bike or Baby Born Doll (Ballerina Sindy in FashEd's experience). We may all be used to ooh-ing and aah-ing each February and September at the catwalk shows (just like I did at Toys'R'Us in my younger years)  but these savvy brands know that this is just the door to the Narnia of our imaginations. Once they've sown the seeds of desire, irresistible Christmas collections land in our inboxes and they know that this is the route to making Christmas just as full of anticipation and delight as back in those childhood dolly-loving days.

The selection below will cater to the woman and the girl in all of you. Crucially, each and every item shown is a classic which embodies the brand which has lovingly crafted it to give us a lifetime of satisfaction and a squeal of delight come December 25th.
An Under The Sea cuff
The Chanel Camellia- this could just as easily be from 1960 as it is from 2011. The heather shade is a wintry update
on the usual white.

I have a bit of a thing for pearl earrings- I like to think I wear them in a sort of ironic, eighties sloane ranger sort of way but it is quite likely that I don't really pull that off! Nevertheless, I cannot think of a more perfect combination than my beloved pearls, with that interlocked C Chanel logo hovering above as an explicit indicator of their provenance.
My friends and I have been unbelivably organised about our NYE plans this year. We are off to a Prohibition Party- this necessitates a full-on twenties flapper extravaganza in the wardrobe department. Thus, the shoes below are quite possibly the perfect starting point with their jewels and delicate T-bar. This image is going straight onto the mood board for my look and if I happen to come into a fortune between now and NYE then these will be mine!

All the above available in Chanel boutiques from November/December +44 207 493 5040
CHANEL.COM
 The Miu Miu seletion has a more fun element than the Chanel but then that's what the Prada's little sister is all about isn't it? All these jewels look like they're from a little rich girl's version of Claire's Accessories- in a really good way!

Miu Miu £295, available from November

Miu Miu £150, available from November
 The pearls and gems are a bit Queen meets Little Princess...

Do Miu Miu do Christmas Crackers? Can this fall out of one please?
£395, available from November

Note to anyone who knows me ;) £395, available from November
 We'll be needing this to carry about all our jewels and trinkets. I just really hope Tom Cruise doesn't buy up the entire stock for Suri...
Miu Miu £750, available from November

Even though Miuccia might like to have us think that Prada is all grown- up and ladylike, she has been messing with that very notion for some time now. Last season's banana motif and the flaming car for SS12 show that there is a very childish element to be enjoyed by a Prada woman. The Christmas collection only enhances that philosophy, mixing up modern essentials like leather iPad cases and purses with quirky key rings which could almost be stocking fillers bought in Hamley's.  This means the adult in us can justify the usefulness of the gift, while the little kid will just want to play at attaching the key ring to everything all Christmas day long (and beyond), win/win....
Happy Face Butterfly
All Prada and Miu Miu items range from £195-£990, available from November

Ahhhhhhh! Pengy.
All Prada and Miu Miu items range from £195-£990, available from November

Its Bichon Prada!
All Prada and Miu Miu items range from £195-£990, available from November

 This furry purse hints at the fraggle rock puppet fun fur theme from AW11...

Fraggle Wallet
All Prada and Miu Miu items range from £195-£990, available from November

YUUUUUUUUUUUMMMYY!

All images courtesy of Prada, Miu Miu & Chanel

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