FIVE GREAT GIRLS AT LONDON FASHION WEEK BY PHILL TAYLOR

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Girl #1: Abbey Lee Kershaw after the Issa show at London Fashion Week on Saturday. 

Look: Abbey is wearing a key look for A/W 11 - the grand gesture fake fur jacket.

I'm a moth to the flame of great photography, especially fashion photography. Recently added to that category for me is the art of street fashion photography. The last few years has seen it become a significant genre both online and in book publishing, complete with its own visual rules and power players. So many people want to be the 'next big thing' in street style photography it has got to the point that walking into any fashion show venue anyplace in the world is akin to a game of British Bulldog.

Of course most senior among the street-style photographers is Scott Schuman; I also appreciate the work of Tommy Ton and Garance Dore. I'm not a fan of Facehunter - his images feel bland and un-engaging to me. But I do have another name to add to my list and that is Phill Taylor.

Phill Taylor

Taylor is 28 and from Leicester, he is a professional fashion photographer who has worked with serious players, notably Nick Knight, Gemma Booth, Alice Hawkins and Ruth Hogben since graduating with his photography degree in 2008. Last year he started taking street style pictures with his Canon 5D mark II for his girlfriend Hannah Almassi (my former assistant, currently the junior fashion news editor of Grazia), for the magazine's Style Hunter pages, and started a blog with his unpublished works. In a short space of time his blog has gained a large following for its wry and warm written observations of the girls and women he captures, and of course for the wonderful photographs.

His work always stops me in my tracks. Unlike Tommy who has an penchant for the eccentric character (Anna Dello Russo, French turban-loving stylist Catherine Baba) and a sublime eye for capturing details and accessories, Phill has an emotional connection with the girls and women he photographs, and it is not predatory unlike some people I could mention. He captures them being themselves seemingly when nobody (especially a bloke)  is looking, except he is a guy. How does he do that?

Girl #2: Clara Paget attending London Fashion Week. 

Look: bright blonde hair, all-black leather and chiffon outfit with an animal print bag. This feels like the London look for now.   

"I learnt a lot from Gemma (Booth) and Alice (Hawkins,)" he told me today when he popped in so we could edit the pictures here to encapsulate five women and five distinct fashion looks that I feel are right for now. "I came to understand a more gentle approach through them. It doesn't feel abusive. When I take a picture, whether it is for a main fashion shoot or for the street style work, I'm guessing what this person is like, and how they are naturally. In a fashion sense I am trying to guess the character they are playing that day. I start a dialogue with them in my head."

Girl #3: Model Charlotte Free taking a pre-show fag break before the TopShop Unique show last Sunday. On his blog Phill wrote "Charlotte Free introduced herself to all the street photographers by bursting out the doors, [from backstage at the Unique fashion show, where she was modelling] leap- frogging over a wall and steps and screaming "oh my god, no way! I fucking love Geese!". She then proceeded to chase two Canadian Geese that had appeared from the Thames behind us."

Look: As for me I love tough girls like Charlotte. She is a total tomboy and full of angst. She is also a bit of a midge for a model, but I expect she will become a fashion icon in the space of a week (well she is to me already).

Girl #4: Bip Ling between shows at London Fashion Week this week. Look: The cute DJ and blogger is working a neck-to-ankle print look very successfully.

"The difference with me," says Phill, "is that I'm a photographer who shoots on the street, not a blogger who shoots street photography.  My work is an observation. On the blog I'm in a position to express how I feel about a girl's style and how they draw my attention when I see them walking down the street. I guess its an emotional response."

Phill's current favourite girl to capture on the fashion circuit is 20 year old Swedish model Dorothea Barth Jorgensen. This picture, he says, "makes me feel like Dorothea's about to get a flight in the mid-70s, except for the phone of course. I absolutely love this look and Dorothea is...just chic, polite and naturally beautiful."

Girl #5: Dorothea Barth Jorgensen. Look: cropped jacket and wide-leg trousers with platforms. The seventies remixed for 2011. 

ALL PHOTOS  © PHILL TAYLOR 2011

http://philltaylorblog.blogspot.com/

COCO CHANEL MEETS COLETTE IN PARIS

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

I think we can all agree that Chanel is the greatest fashion brand in the world. Perhaps in the Universe. All the best aliens wear Chanel.  If you have ever been to Colette in Paris, you may well also agree on the fact that it is one of the world's most-exciting-to-shop-in-shops.

So it delights me to share that over Paris Fashion Week Chanel and Colette are joining forces to open a pop-up boutique at 336-340 rue Saint-Honoré. (Moments from my paris hotel, oh happiness.) Stretching over 200 m², the space will be assembled in the industrial surroundings of a former garage. Chanel does love an industrial interior - as evidenced by their regular showings at the Grand Palais, below.

Chanel finale for Spring/Summer 2011

Their installation will combine, says the press release:

"fashion, visual arts and musical performances, resulting in a fun-fuelled, creative mix by Chanel and Colette with a rock ‘n’ roll vibe. The headlining creations from Chanel Spring-Summer 11 collection will be juxtaposed with a selection from young designers chosen by Colette. Classic Chanel bags and this season’s bag designs will be originally customised by various artists.  ÉRES [the swimwear brand owned by Chanel] will be included in the mix with pieces from its collection in a palette of black and iridescent hues that will beautifully contrast with Maison MICHEL’s spotted veils. Also waiting to be discovered, or rediscovered, is a selection of books published by Éditions 7L and back issues of Visionaire magazine. "

Sounds too good to miss in every possible way. See below for the schedule - if, like me, you're in Paris through fashion week, this will offer a perfect break from the madness.

Sketch of Coco with her Colette bag by Karl Lagerfeld 

OTHER THINGS I'M LOOKING FORWARD TO AT THE STORE:
A collector’s doll by Karl Lagerfeld,
A cupcake bar from Chez Bogato 
A special playlist created by Michel Gaubert provides the finishing touch, available to all boutique customers.
The harpischord performace on Friday March 4th
The Chanel nail bar on 8th and 10th of March

 FRANCOIS CLOUET Half-length portrait of Catherine de’Medici, 16th century. Collection Institut de France, Musée Condé, Château de Chantilly (France)

GEORGE HOYNINGEN-HUENE Gabrielle Chanel with a white collaret1939© Horst

DUSAN RELJIN Carmen Kass wearing an outfit from CHANEL’s 2009 Fall/Winter Ready-to-Wear collection © RMN (Domaine de Chantilly)/René-Gabriel Ojéda

Images taken from CULTURE CHANEL exhibition at the MoCA Shanghai until March 14th

STORE SCHEDULE
Tuesday, March 1 : between 4pm and 6pm
Kevin Lyons, designer and illustrator, will be customising bags
Wednesday, March 2 : between 3pm and 6pm
Camellia demonstration by a LEMARIÉ craftsman
Thursday, March 3 : between 4pm and 6pm
The illustrator Soledad will be customising bags
Friday, March 4 : from 5pm
Harpsichord performance by the pianist and composer Maxence Cyrin, 
Saturday, March 5 : between 3pm and 6pm
Graffiti artist André will be customising bags
Monday, March 7 : between 4pm and 6pm
Graffiti artist Fafi will be customising bags
Tuesday, March 8 : between 3pm and 6pm
CHANEL nail bar
Wednesday, March 9 : between 4pm and 6pm
SO-ME, graphic artist and illustrator, will be customising bags
Thursday, March 10 : between 3pm and 6pm
CHANEL nail bar

LÉON BAKST Costume design for Potiphar’s wife in “Joseph’s Legend” 1914 Watercolor, gold paint and pencil on paper © Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, Theater and Dance Collection, don de Madame Adolph B. Spreckels
KARL LAGERFELDnThe “Coromandel” coat, 1996 Fall/Winter CHANEL Haute Couture Collectionm © Photo Karl Lagerfeld
BORIS LIPNITZKIGabrielle Chanel in front of the Coromandel screens of her apartment at 31 rue Cambon, Paris. 1937© Lipnitzki/Roger-ViolletImages taken from CULTURE CHANEL exhibition at the MoCA Shanghai until March 14th

THE STORE IS  OPEN MARCH 1 - 10TH FROM 11AM TO 7 PM, VALET PARKING

LFW AW11: DONE! THANKS MERCEDES!

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

So, that's over with for another season. Over the past five days, the Fashion Editor at Large and I have been to 40 different shows and presentations scattered all over London town, whilst also finding time to blog, network, and in the case of the Fash Ed, carry out a live Q&A session in Topshop with the brilliant David Koma.

None of this would have been possible (or at least, it would have been a darn sight more difficult!) if it wasn't for the wonderful people at Mercedes-Benz, who supplied our transport for the week, along with our lovely driver Nick (he rules!)

He got us to every show, and didn't offer a word of complaint as highly strung fashion girls piled in and out of the backseat, which steadily filled up with press releases, goody bags and hastily-eaten lunches!

Having this magical form of transportation allowed us to do so much more...

Here's the Fash Ed doing her thing:

Tweeting all the latest news on the move:

And even being interviewed in the back of our car:



So that's another fashion week officially in the bag: Mercedes, we couldn't have done it without you!

Images: Copyright FEAL

CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA'S NEW COLLECTION IS 'TO DIE FOR'!

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

We have been dedicated worker bees this Fashion Week, and have been getting up early and going home early, in order to ensure we had the energy to keep going, helped along by our Mercedes and driver Nic! However there was one event yesterday that topped of our list of social activities: the Charlotte Olympia cocktail party at Mark's Club in Mayfair, held to present her AW11 collection and the accompanying short film, a glamorous murder mystery starring Portia Freeman.

Not usually being one to frequent exclusive Mayfair members clubs, I was confused at first about the entrance, which appears to be the normal front door of a town house. However, one foot inside, it was clear to see why this typically English, elegant and genteel club was the perfect setting for a Murder Mystery themed soiree. 

 Delicate petit fours were positioned around the sumptuous surroundings, while guests drunk proper tea from proper porcelain and whisky from crystal tumblers. The general atmosphere was one of a decadent yet civilized sophistication. The perfect respite for a group of weary fashionistas!

Shoes and cake, delicious!

Now, on to the serious matter of the shoes. Charlotte Olympia rocks our world - her designs are always incredibly sexy, colourful and fun. Their special platform and gold spiderweb logo sole are instantly recognisable. So I for one was desperate to see what she had in store for AW11. The shoes were dotted about the room, hidden on bookshelves, next to cake stands and - most perfect of all - placed under antique glass bell jars. A befitting protection for shoes that are beautiful enough to be considered works of art.

 Charlotte herself was wearing this delectable pussycat pair.

These Victoriana boots wouldn't look out of place on an Agatha Christie heroine...

 Bruce, Charlotte's porcelain leopard mascot, usually reclines in her shop window, but his face has popped up in the AW11 collection!

 Tinkling the ivories whilst drinking some single malt. A dangerous combination...

 The shoes to surpass all other shoes. Bedazzling crystals in an alluring 1930s design, be still my beating heart. 

We retired to a sitting room for the screening of the short film, which stars Portia Freeman as three different muses, each going to murderous lengths to acquire the crystal shoes. There are sultry close ups and mysterious glances, as women in disguise sneak and trick their way into each other's boudoirs. It's terribly kinky! 

Portia Freeman, Charlotte Dellal's longtime friend and muse

Charlotte, Portia and film director Jam

I caught up with Charlotte, who was looking polished and poised as always, and asked her about the collection. She told me that as usual, she had taken inspiration from fabulous women of the 1930s and 40s, in this case Agatha Christie heroines. Even though, personally, I can't think of a more wonderful pair of shoes than the crystal stunners that star in the film, she finds it impossible to pick a favourite from the shoes she designed, although she leans towards the leopard-face pumps for AW11. Mainly because they are inspired by her shop mascot, the magnificent porcelain leopard named Bruce!

Charlotte's personal favourites.

Stills from the short film show off the amazing detailing...

...

...as well as comedy moments of darkly gothic humour, with a slightly fetish theme

 

For a dedicated high heel wearer, these are the most glamorous slippers Charlotte could imagine!

Portia is the perfect screen siren to show off Charlotte Olympia's sultry designs. And from a journalistic note, watching this gorgeous three minute wonder is a whole lot more fun than flicking through a lookbook!

Enjoy it for yourself here.

All pictures: FJAL and Charlotte Olympia

ALL OF THE LIGHTS

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

From exactly one minute in, this is the best graphic visual music video I have ever seen. (Though don't fast forward or you miss Elton playing!) Directed by Hype Williams, the video is inspired by the opening and closing sequences of the French movie Enter the Void, which was released early last year. Critics accuse Kanye and Hype of a total rip-off, and while it is very close to the original, their version is an improvement in my eyes. They say creativity is all about hiding your sources, well Kanye and Hype didn't burrow into the distant past, so what do they expect? Anyway, it's of no matter. This is a thing of beauty. Rihanna is sublime.

For me, watching this on a loop is the perfect palate refresher between London and Milan fashion week. Simply cannot stop watching/listening. Kanye, Elton, Rihanna, even La Roux is in there somewhere. Enjoy.

LFW TREND SPOT #2: TWEED

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

The general consensus flying around Somerset House is that next season is all about English heritage style, and if there is one fabric that captures the essence of English-ness, it's good old-fashioned tweed.

Yes, tweed. The fabric of grandad caps, riding jackets and skirts worn by geography teachers everywhere has been embraced by London designers across the board, and been made to look fresh, exciting and desirable. Blame the Royal wedding, blame the Olympics, even blame the Kings Speech, if you like, because for a while now, there has been a feeling that now is the right time to celebrate our culture and style heritage. Tweed is the perfect fabric to showcase this feeling, and just as silk has overtaken jersey as the reigning summer fabric, tweed has replaced leather as the outerwear fabric of choice for Autumn/Winter 11. These tweedy collections show just how brilliant the Englishwoman can look, if she puts her mind to it. 

Jaeger London

 

AW11 for Jaeger was strong, powerful and elegant. Large lapels on knee skimming jackets with military pockets, and high waisted, wide leg trousers gave traditional tweed a contemporary feeling, whilst referencing its' classic style.

House of Holland

Trust Henry to take something traditional and give it a cheeky twist. The tweed skirt suit was updated with a flippy mini length and black velvet lapels, while the hot pink colour swiftly vamoosed any granny-chic connotations. The classic sweater and slacks combo was also created in a yellowy orange tweed, lending the entire collection a very tongue-in-cheek feeling of retro, ladylike dressing with added naughtiness.

Margaret Howell

 Margaret Howell's extremely elegant collection made me want to throw out my garish wardrobe and start again with a neutral palette, refined, classic pieces and some incredible, belted, tweed outerwear. So simple, yet so completely beautiful.

JW Anderson

 

Both myself and the Fash Ed are MASSIVE JW Anderson  fans, and were so excited to see his debut collection just for gals. His womenswear contained all the elements that make us go crazy for his menswear, and in the AW11 presentation he mixed traditional tweed for outerwear with Liberty silks, for a double dose of English heritage.

Mulberry

Mulberry's brilliant English countryside-inspired collection is the perfect vehicle for the tweed trend. Again, updated with a modern colour palette of deep pinks and forest greens, their tweed jackets are the perfect item to get the urban fox running around in some fields, while still looking stylish.

 Holly Fulton got playful with tweed, oversizing it and using yellow and black threads to make the fabric come alive!

And last but not least, we have just returned from the typically awe-inspiring Erdem show, where, shock horror, a little bit of tweed crept in amongst his trademark prints. Pictures to follow later!

Basically, if you are wearing anything this Autumn, better make it tweed. London has spoken.

All images: Chris Moore Catwalking (except for Holly Fulton, from Style.com)

LONDON FASHION WEEK HIGHLIGHTS #2: CHRISTOPHER KANE

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Today's London Fashion Week schedule is just crazy. No joke. We were forced to skip a show in order to eat. So with 45 minutes in the bag, I thought it would be lovely to share a few of my Christopher Kane catwalk images and some quotes from the man himself.  All we can say is him Mum must have let his eat a lot of sweeties when he was a kid!

were your sequin dresses inspired by mermaids? "No, I was thinking of my Soda Steam from when I was a kid. You know that woosh when the fizz rose up. I really wanted that feeling of bubbling over."

The plastic with the coloured liquid inside, where did the idea come and how long did it take to perfect? "It was from the ice-pops we used to eat as a kid, and a pencil case I had at school." Indeed when you finish the ice-pop there is always a bit of coloured liquid left that one has to squeeze out. I remember them well.  "It took a month to get the mix of colours right. My favourite is the black and purple mix. I love how the liquid is this toxic thing that can be so beautiful to look at."

"The crochet is inspired by bedspreads and blankets that you see in homely places. We created them in soft cashmere and recoloured them in dark greens and blues, which has never been done before. It is really soft, and really light and spongy to the touch."

Photos: Fashion Editor at Large

MODEL CRUSH #2: NYASHA MATONHODZE

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

The first time I saw her at last season's Louis Vuitton show, it didn't register with me quite how much 18 year old Zimbabwean born Nyasha Matonhodze looked like a young Michelle Obama. However, the 5 foor 11 inch tall model catwalking on many a London Fashion Week runway over the last few days has confirmed it. The tilt of her chin and set of her mouth brings to mind Michelle. After leaving Zimbabwe as a child, Nyasha moved to Northampton, England and began her modelling career after coming second in a local model competition. These days she is a favourite of Katie Grand, and appears in the GILES pre-fall lookbook.  I wonder if her increasing success has something to do with the Michelle O visual connection? How long until there are few supermodel versions of Kate Middleton, I wonder?

Nyasha on the Unique runway yesterday

Nyasha in the March 2011 edition of Teen Vogue

Photos: Marilyn/Style.com

LONDON FASHION WEEK AW11: THE HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR #1

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

We're into day three of LFW. It gets majorly busy from here on in, but we've found an hour to share what is inspiring us.

   JONATHAN SAUNDERS DIVINE MODERN ELEGANCE

This collection puts Jonathan in the big leagues for me

The designer totally reinvented his print technique, the mix of print and graphic is brilliant

 J.W ANDERSON SHOW

Fierce faced model Hannah Noble at J.W Anderson. This  outfit is so fresh, young and accomplished looking. More surprising still that this is the designer's second womenswear collection.  

  

DANIELLE SCUTT COMEBACK

Danielle Scutt back on the runway off-schedule Saturday morning after self-imposed exile. It was a tightly edited very Danielle-at-her-best kind of show. Sexy and fierce all at once with great gold jewellery piled on. We really like the fake-hair tassel earrings. Tassel earring being most popular also in New York. Danielle is a talent who finds the limelight hard, but she worked it and produced a collection to be proud of.

HOUSE OF HOLLAND NAUGHTY & NICE JUMPERS

Henry's friends tittered on the front row when this jumper, modelled by this butter-wouldn't-melt demure young lady, appeared on the catwalk. At the end of his show Henry took his bow wearing one. In slang sign-language it apparently means "shall we fuck?". Though we would like confirmation of this. Any sign language experts out there?

Henry also did some more tasteful looks, such as this. Jumpers/sweaters whatever you call them, are going to be major for AW11. Love the pearl detailing on this jumper. Also the orange/yellow flecked herringbone tweed trousers are special. Its a young royal, gone cool. I feel strongly that Henry is stepping smack-bang into the fashion territory vacated by Luella Bartley whern her business closed down. Smart boy.

CHARLES ANASTASE FRENCH DOLLY GIRLS

Double-breasted coats, jackets and car-coats are popping up all over the runway. A huge trend in the making too, is that for looping a seemingly endless woollen scarf multiple times around the nek to create a scarf larger than an in-flight-pillow. Oh and wide-leg trousers are here to stay.

WILL UPDATE MORE LATER!