THE WEEK IN FASHION: MAY 13th- 17th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

A survey this week claimed that 99.3%* of people felt "significantly cheered up" if they read the fashion news on a grey Friday and/or weekend. With those kind of stats, you'd be mad not to read on.

*This figure and survey is entirely made-up but we suspect this might be the case.

In the tug of war between high fashion and high street, this has been a major week as Mark and Spencer and Versus vied for the attention of fashion keenos.

VERSUS X JW ANDERSON (via style.com)

Aren't the Versus transfers utterly brilliant? JW ANDERSON X VERSUS
(via style.com)

Firstly, in New York Donatella Versace and JW Anderson came together for the major re-launch of Versace's sister label Versus, for which JW Anderson has designed a capsule collection. In an innovative move, Donatella has repositioned Versus as an exciting brand for fashion-mad millenials. The JW Anderson collection will be available exclusively online in a few days and collections will be launched away from the traditional settings and timings of fashion weeks. Angel Haze and Grimes performed at the event Lexington Avenue Armory, making it a quite the fashion and music bonanza. I loved watching/ listening to the video below, J-Dubz and Donatella in conversation.

Backstage at Versus via JW Anderson's Instagram

Stella Tennant on JW Anderson's Instagram

Meanwhile back in London, Marks and Spencer's share price rose 3% and this happened...

EDITD ‏@EDITD16 May

Following the press launch of @marksandspencer's #AW13 collection yesterday, not only has chat increased 272%, but it is 81%+! Kudos M&S.

Why? Because Belinda Earl unveiled her new plan for the ailing fashion side of M&S. The business has pinned its hopes on Earl, formerly of Debenhams and Jaeger, to rescue it from an eighth consecutive quarter of falling profits. Britain's most-respected fashion editors seem to have varying views on how exactly Earl has executed the turnaround...

Jess Cartner- Morley and Sarah Butler in The Guardian

"The bold fashion message on which Belinda Earl is pinning her hopes of turning around the fortunes of Britain's biggest clothing retailer is about quality, not trend."

Laura Craik in The Times

"That M&S has done one too says everything you need to know about its new strategy. M&S is paying heed to the catwalk again. M&S is doing just what H&M, Zara and Topshop do. M&S is back in the game."

The very Celine/ Carven coat, M&S AW13

The very Prada coat M&S AW13

There are certainly plenty of pieces which rival Zara when it comes to "inspired" by the catwalk. A fur trimmed coat, for example, is a dead ringer for Prada's and a pinstripe one with turned-up collar looks like it might have been designed as a result of Stella McCartney's AW13 show. I showed my Mum the new look book. She, I would imagine, is exactly the kind of customer who could be lured back to M&S- she loved it for years but has more recently migrated to Whistles, Cos and whatever's in John Lewis. She said that she liked "some pieces but I'm not sure who they're targeting". The very Dolce and Gabbana lace red party dress is  is "lovely" she said, "but my friends and I could never wear that now, it's so short". Luckily, the sound of better quality and well-edited ranges was music to her ears. Personally, I would certainly consider making a coat purchase. 

My Mum's favourite dress, she wants this. 

David Beckham announced this week that he's retiring from football. From the reactions of some, you'd think that we're never going to see him again. However, it does seem an appropriate moment to pause and remember the various incarnations of "hairstyle" which Becks has paraded on the pitch. I like AskMen's edit. 

It's been the best of times...

And the worst of times...

Beckham corn rows. Errr. (via askmen.com)

More news in brief...

John Galliano may or may not be preparing to do a tell-all TV interview

Tamara Mellon has been using Twitter to suggest that she may be working on a new venture.

Tamara tries it on (via twitter.com/tamaramellon)

Greg Karber is encouraging us to donate Abercrombie and Fitch clothes to the homeless after an executive said that their clothes weren't for "poor people". Watch the video...



Terry Richardson is responsible for the new Valentino accessories campaign, which stars his hands.

Cara Delevingne has had another t-shirt made in her honour. This time she stars on it. Naked. All for Marc Jacobs and skin cancer, who wouldn't?

The UK luxury market will double in the coming five years, according to new research.

Numerous fashion retailers have signed up to a new deal to help prevent further tragedies like last month's Bangladesh factory collapse. Arcadia have now signed after they missed the initial deadline.

Finally in Cannes, aside from some major jewellery burglary, there has been lots of pretty great red carpet dressing. Obviously, for a full run-down you should head over to the Red Carpet Fashion Awards. However, we'll leave you with some lovely actresses in lovely Dior (just don't mention Julianne's toes). Happy Weekend!

Julianne Moore (via perezhilton.com)

Carey Mulligan (via juicy.tuxboard.com)

Nicole Kidman (via tomandlorenzo.com)

Zhang Ziyi (via fashionbombdaily.com)

THE HAT FOR NOW: A TURBAN

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

We're backing the turban as the headwear of the Summer. Ok, so they might not be so street as a Rihanna-favourite cap nor so easy as a straw panama but, damn, are they chic. A turban is the kind of hat which works on the beach but also on a rainy Saturday night when you're going out clubbing and can't be bothered to do your hair. Basically, they're fabulous.

Chloe Sevigny in turban and Proenza Schouler
at the Met Ball (image via glamour magazine.co.uk)

What has prompted us to think about turbans now? If any of you have visited & Other Stories' London store, then you will probably have seen how they have a bikini and turban matching set by Abigail Lorick. They have had it displayed for some time on the table you pass as you go up the stairs in the London store, well they did at least until I went in a couple of weeks ago. I've seen it so many times (do I sound obsessed?) that it has planted a seed for how I'd like to look when I finally make it to the beach in July. Sort of like someone out of a Slim Aarons photograph, please. Chloe Sevigny livened up her Proenza Schouler Met Ball dress with a black turban which took it from perfectly nice (though very un-punk) to something really rather Gloria Swanson-like. Funnily enough, Sevigny's mate Marc Jacobs cited Swanson as an inspiration for his decadently glamourous Autumn/Winter collection. All Sevigny needed was a stonking huge diamond brooch at the front of her turban to look proper 30s socialite.

Camilla Batmanghelidjh in one of her fantastic turbans (image via royalacademy.org)

Some of the most originally stylish well-known women in the world are keen proponents of the turban. Sheikha Mozah, a wife of the Emir of Qatar, has regularly appeared at state occasions across the world in turbans made to match her choice of outfit, usually a sleek column in piercingly bright purple or understated grey or navy. She brings a fresh slant to Islam's modest dress codes. Kids Company founder Camilla Batmanghelidjh co-ordinates her rainbow coloured turbans with  her multicoloured robes and scarves to dazzling effect. She always looks like she might be on her way to some wild celebratory festival. These two women are proof of the turban's brilliance; Sheikha Mozah is about elegance while Batmanghelidjh is all colour and fun, but neither would look right to us now without their respective takes on turbans. Proof that you can make the humble head wrap completely your own.

Sheikha Mozah (nourphoria-journal.blogspot.com)

A TUMBLE OF TURBANS

Juergen Teller for Celine with Daria Werbowy

Michelle Harper via nymag/thecut

Turbans in Vogue 

The coolest way to wear a turban now via thesartorialist.com

Vogue, 1965

THREE GREAT TURBANS TO BUY:

ASOS, £12

Eugenia Kim at Net-a-Porter, £250

Turban hat, £45, & Other Stories

THREE GREAT FASHION THINGS TO DO THIS WEEK

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

It's been a little while now since I steered you in the direction of some fun fashion things to do. By chance, three things which I think are quite great are happening over the next few days so today seems like a good day to share them so you can plan your weekend around these highly worthwhile fashion activities. In no particular order...

1. JW ANDERSON SAMPLE SALE

Cannily, this sale falls just two days after JW Anderson unveils his collaboration with Versus in New York so it's likely we'll all be feeling in the mood to purchase a little piece of JW geniusness.

2. THE HACKNEY SHOP

I do love a designer collective getting together to pop-up sell their wares. This time, Holly Fulton, Atalanta Weller (whose shoes I love), Noel Stewart and James Long all have great stuff for sale at reduced prices. Go!

3. WE'RE NOT HERE TO SELL CLOTHES at ICA

Iain R Webb has written a book about 80s fashion magazine Blitz, which he once edited. To celebrate the book's publication, the ICA are holding a one-weekend only exhibition of films and other bits and bobs related to the book and the magazine which it discusses. There are also a few great sounding talks and screenings going on so do check out the schedule.

THE WEEK IN FASHION: MAY 6th-10th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

I'm afraid the week in fashion is a little brief this week. Nevertheless, read the headlines, click through and in a hop, skip and jump around the internet you'll be sorted on the week's fashion happenings. Happy Weekend!

Yasmin Sewell is opening a pop-up shop next week and Sarah Mower interviewed her for American Vogue

More sad news for the Missoni family this week, as patriarch Ottavio passes away peacefully at the grand old age of 92.

Lily McMenamy, daughter of Kristen, has landed her first cover, on i-D magazine.

Lily McMenamy covers i-D (image via telegraph.co.uk)

The terrible stream of news from the Bangladesh factory disaster might be making us question the origin of our clothes more.

Somerset House is celebrating the incredible fashion collection accumulated by Isabella Blow with an exhibition in November.

Chanel kicked off the Resort season yesterday with a show in Singapore. Early trends seem to be: cricket, monochrome and Edwardian silhouettes.

Chanel does cricket (style.com)

Chanel Cruise (style.com)

Suzy Menkes has spoken out on several interesting fashion buzz topics this week. In an interview with Fern Mallis she spoke, among many other things, about how she would support John Galliano's return to work and how she never meant to offend bloggers in that Circus of Fashion article. Menkes also reviewed the Met's punk exhibition and wasn't so into it.

Hedi Slimane will be designing costumes for Keith Richards, totally on brand. Furthermore, the collection will be on sale, entitled "Saint Laurent Stage Wear by Hedi Slimane".

Suri Cruise might be designing her own range, and get paid £1.5 million for it. That's all.

DO THE DUNGA: DUNGAREES ARE THE ONE THING TO BUY THIS SUMMER...

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

By "Summer", I am of course referring to the months of May/ June/July/ August when it may or may not be warm and sunny but it damn well should be. Therefore, an ideal thing to buy is an item which will work when temperatures hobble into the 20s but can equally be tweaked for chillier, rainy days. Obviously, said item will also be the kind of thing which drags everything else in your wardrobe into a feeling of "nowness". What could possibly tick all these boxes? The previously humble dungaree, of course.

House of Holland SS13 (via style.com)

Humble I say because dungarees have always been the kind of thing which tend to slot into a less revered side of fashion history. They've never really had a high fashion moment but are the territory of 70s feminists, factory workers, artists, pregnant women and Dexy's Midnight Runners. There is rumour that the reason that dungarees are back on the scene is because of feminism's revival. In The Times this weekend, Janice Turner wrote, "So is this the right moment for Spare Rib to return? After all, dungarees are back in fashion: Keira Knightley, Rihanna and Alexa Chung make them almost look fetching". It's true to say that there's a general vibe of easiness about fashion at the moment- sweatshirts, trainers, tees all feel so much more right than heels and body-con, but whether this is fashion's direct reaction to Everyday Sexism, Vagenda and Caitlin Moran, I'm not so sure. Isn't it just the whole "what goes around, comes around" and because Alexa Chung was obviosuly going to get into them sooner or later, hving lredy done pinafore dresses and playsuits.

On the catwalk, it was the 90s inspired collections whose dungarees shouted loudest. Phillip Lim's SS13 was all about grunge- shirts tied around the waist, cropped tops and a quite awesome pair of pink suede "bib and brace" which are at the top of my most-wanted list. Then there were Henry Holland's acid rave tie-dyed dungarees which could just as easily have been inspired by the madly rainbow bright ones my friends and I used to wear when we were on summer holidays, aged 8.

The very best thing about dungarees is that once you've found the right ones for you, they are super easy to wear and a fashion statement packaged into one neat purchase. I don't need to the bla, bla, bla about good with heels, trainers, crop tops, silky shirts etc, do I?

SOME LOVELY DUNGAREES...

Carven, £530.57

3.1 Phillip Lim at Brown, £1,255

Topshop £55

Uniqlo £39

Warehouse £48

MET BALL 2013: WHAT IS PUNK NOW?

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

You will have to excuse our being a day late with our Met Ball coverage, however we thought that there were probably a trillion places for you to see all the dresses and that what might be very fun would be to take it all in and then reflect on what we've learnt from the "Punk: Chaos to Couture" launch extravaganza. And we can conclude that punk is not quite what it used to be. "Although punk’s democracy stands in opposition to fashion’s autocracy, designers continue to appropriate punk’s aesthetic vocabulary to capture its youthful rebelliousness and aggressive forcefulness” said the exhibition's curator, Andrew Bolton ahead of the opening. Clearly, we might all have saved ourselves a lot of trouble if we had looked a little closer at the title of the exhibition and seen the "TO COUTURE" bit at the end, which clarifies that punk is now couture (?). So really, nobody need have worried about about trying to combine safety pins with Dolce and Gabbana, but they did (hello, Giovanna Battaglia). Thus, a new kind of punk has been born in the space of mere days. Here follow its key components...

SOFAS

Poor Kim Kardashian. For months, speculation was feverish about whether Anna Wintour would even deign to invite her. Then it was confirmed she would get to go on Kanye's arm and talk turned to how she would tackle the whole dressing situation given that, in case you weren't aware, she's pretty damn pregnant right now. Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci stepped in and ran her up a floral gown with built-in gloves. Tisci told WWD today, "We should give her our punk moment with a romantic beautiful flower-printed dress. I have dressed many pregnant women in the past. People can say what they want. To me, pregnancy is the most beautiful thing in the world, and when you celebrate something, you give people flowers."

Cue the sofa meme.

Kim as sofa (via Leutton Postle on Instagram)

And Robin Williams got in on the cosy floral theme...

Robin Williams ‏@robinwilliams11h

I think I wore it better! pic.twitter.com/Cv0XtebBIX

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HILARY DEVEY

If I remember correctly, Madonna has perfectly good hair. There was really no immediate need for a wig as part of her Givenchy Couture get-up. However, she saw fit to channel what she perhaps thought was Uma Thurman in Pulp Fiction but ended up being construed in the UK as the more contemporary refererence which is... Hilary Devey.

Hilary and Madonna, hair twins (image via metro.co.uk)

Hilary has since expressed how pleased she is with Madonna's style tribute with a tweet...

Hilary Devey ‏@HilaryDevey16h

nice to see @mdna taking a few fashion tips xxxx

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MISS HAVISHAM

Between them, Nicole Ritchie and Linda Evangelista made a sterling effort at rendering the Miss Havisham look part of the new punk genre. Evangelista's Marchesa froth-fest will be ideal for the next time she needs something for a Tudor- themed event, but its lightly faded grey colouring and sheer meringue-ness also remind of the classic Miss Havisham wedding dress motif. While Ritchie's white Topshop dress was less bridal, her powdered white hair recalled the gathering-dustiness of Dickens' tragically evil Great Expectations character.

Linda Evangelista (style.com)

Nicole Ritchie (metro.co.uk)

PINK

Anna Wintour was, quite naturally, one of the first to arrive at the Met Gala and consequently confused everyone who had been completely seduced by the theme by arriving a pink, floral embellished Chanel dress. Why anyone was actually that surprised, on reflection, seems strange because this is pretty much Anna's standard formal event modus operandi.

Anna Wintour in Chanel pink and flowers (image via refinery29.com)

The Telegraph's Lisa Armstrong set out how Wintour's choice was explained by the Punk exhibition's curator, Andrew Bolton:

"Andrew Bolton, curator of the exhibition, gallantly defended the authenticity of Anna's dress choice. "Pink was the colour of punk," he explained. It was certainly the colour of Moschino's Cheap & Chic autumn/winter 2013 "punk" collection - and of many of 2013's non-punk collections. And that's the point."

Given that Wintour was joined in her pink foray by Gwyneth Paltrow (in Valentino), Kate Beckinsdale (in Alberta Ferretti), Zandra Rhodes (in original 1977 attire) and Vanessa Redgrave, we can conclude that pink is the colour of punk, version 2013.

PLASTIC ENVELOPES

Many have expressed regret that we haven't heard more about Vivienne Westwood's attendance at the Met Ball. After all, she's was one of the closest people on the guest list to an "original Punk". Well, Westwood unsurprisingly took the opportunity to have a good old rant about the Julian Assange case. In addition to mouthing off about Bradley Manning- the man accused of providing details for Assange to leak on Wikileaks- Westwood hammered home the message by wearing a picture of Manning pinned onto her dress. Most interestingly, said picture seems to be housed inside a plastic sleeve. These are consequently the new safety pins.

Vivienne Westwood at the Met Ball (image via dailymail.co.uk)

FAKE TATTOOS

Note, the "fake" here. It would be far too permanent a statement to have anything indelibly inked. Instead the new punk way to decorate one's body is to use fake tattoo paint. Derek Blasberg demonstrated the limitations of this new kind of punk when he tweeted:

Derek Blasberg ‏@DerekBlasberg22h

I woke up in bed with a harness and sheets full of tattoo ink. That's normal for a Tuesday morning, right? #MetGala

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Derek Blasberg's fake tattoos (image via Derek's Instagram)

PHOTO BOMBING

If we'd thought about it hard enough then it would be obvious that photo bombing was a very 2013 punk thing to do, however the behaviour of various Met Ball attendees confirmed that it is totally punk to photo bomb these days. Such photo bombs are best viewed via the medium of a GIF.

First, Jennifer Lawrence bombs SJP (who did perfectly pitched punk).

Secondly, there's Joshua Jackson bombing Anne Hathaway.

(via Papermag.com)

Finally, the front photo bomb. Jerry Seinfeld totally gets in the way of Valentino and Anne.

via @AmyOdell

FUNK

Yup, funk is the new punk. The only exhibit we need to prove this is Solange Knowles in Kenzo, and the fact that the only song anyway wants to listen to right now is Daft Punk's Get Lucky.

THE WEEK IN FASHION: APRIL 29th- MAY 3rd

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

The fashion news is coming at you a day early this week as I'm off for a few days break. Luckily, there's plenty to tell you about already with the first of the AW13 ads, pretty costumes and much more.

If anything, this will be the week when Nicolas Ghesquiere finally got his voice heard. After months of radio silence following his departure from Balenciaga, details of two interviews he has given to indy magazines have shed light on his feelings in the run-up to his decision to leave after 15 years at the French design house. First, Business of Fashion ran excerpts from new magazine System's piece. Ghesquiere doesn't hold back:

"It became one frustration after another. It was really that lack of culture which bothered me in the end. The strongest pieces that we made for the catwalk got ignored by the business people. They forgot that in order to get to that easily sellable biker jacket, it had to go via a technically mastered piece that had been shown on the catwalk. I started to become unhappy when I realised that there was no esteem, interest, or recognition for the research that I’d done; they only cared about what the merchandisable result would look like."

The 032c cover via nymag.com/thecut

The second insight we've gleaned is from a mega long (c.14,000 words) feature in Germany's 032C publication. The Cut reports that there are quotes from the likes of Grace Coddington and Hamish Bowles on Ghesquiere's Balenciaga legacy. Kristen Stewart, who wore Ghesquiere's Balenciaga designs extensively on the red carpet, has also given her thoughts on his departure. He clearly shared his feelings with the actress. After his final SS13 show (though nobody knew it at the time), Stewart says, "he had this look like he was actually the kid who was being told he wasn't allowed to do something", seeing that he was unhappy she offered, "I will totally run away with you". 

Later, Ghesquiere himself hints that (thank god) we haven't seen the last of him yet. "I am preparing something, but I have choices to make". 

To add further intrigue to the tale, there are separate rumours of a big development soon. Yesterday, this exchange took place on Twitter...

1. Disneyrollergirl ‏@Disneyrollrgirl1 May

   More Nicolas Ghesquière - someone is giving him a big PR push ... http://www.wwd.com/media-news/fashion-memopad/work-ethic-6915169?src=twitter/share …

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2. Kate Brindley ‏@Liberty_KateB1 May

   @Disneyrollrgirl perhaps there's going to be an announcement about him going somewhere mega very soon???

   Expand
3. Disneyrollergirl ‏@Disneyrollrgirl1 May

   @Liberty_KateB what do you know miss B???

   Expand

Kate Brindley ‏@Liberty_KateB1 May

@Disneyrollrgirl I've heard a whisper but nothing confirmed...

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9:51 AM - 1 May 13 · Details

Watch this space...

In news from a whole other side of the fashion industry, Primark announced this week that they would be offering compensation to all the families of the those affected by the Bangladesh factory collapse in which over 390 people have now been reported dead, with more still missing. The help will include "the provision of long-term aid for children who have lost parents, financial aid for those injured and payments to the families of the deceased." The disaster has prompted responses from across the spectrum, with some fashion editors questioning the provenance of the cheap clothes to which we are, arguably, addicted to the Pope criticising the working conditions of factory workers. 

Miuccia Prada with Carey Mulligan (image courtesy of Prada)

@THELOVEMAGAZINE shared a picture of the Prada/ Gatsby exhibition

The Great Gatsby is finally in proper promo mode after years of build-up. To celebrate, Prada- whose archive pieces made up many of the costumes- is putting on an exhibition entitled Catherine Martin and Miuccia Prada dress Gatsby. A selection of outfits to be seen in the film, which will be released in the UK on May 16th, are on show at Prada's "epicentre"in New York until May 12th. They will then go on to Tokyo and Shanghai in June. Prada worked in conjunction with Gatsby's Costume Designer, Catherine Martin to adapt archive designs for Carey Mulligan et al. In an interview with WWD, Mrs Prada acknowledged that she had never specifically intended such broad spectrum of her dresses to fit with the twenties theme. She told Bridget Foley, “that’s what’s interesting. The point of view can transform things so much. Yes, probably a few [dresses] had that kind of edge, but almost none were meant to be the Twenties when I did them. I was really fascinated by that.”

Steven Stipelman's illustrations of The Great Gatsby costumes (via wwd.com)

Back to Balenciaga land once more, this time for the first ad from Alexander Wang. It's a little, well, dark. Wang's first campaign was shot by Steven Klein and apparently stars Kristen McMenamy, although you would never know that given that the model's back is turned and she seems to be about to slip out of the room. Any more than that is difficult to glean. 

Wang's first ad at Balenciaga (image via WWD)

If, like us, you didn't make it along to the Vogue Festival last weekend, then may I recommend these two options for catching up on all the goings-on? Firstly, head to DisneyRollerGirl for a catch-up. Then, you should re-live Natalie Massenet's talk about how she went from LA girl to Net-a-Porter fashion web retail extraordinaire by reading from start to finish through the Instagram feed nataporter_mystorysofar. It'll probably take you half an hour or so and you'll learn loads. 

One of Natalie Massenet's instagrams... On set as a Production Assistant on Charles Bronson's "Kinjite"

In the eeewest piece of fashion news for a while, Lady Gaga apparently once returned a Mugler dress covered in semen. There were plenty of virtual disgusted faces at this revelation. However, Fashionista is today saying that semen is really not the worst of it. PRs have tales of period and pee related return incidents. Sad times for precious sample gowns.

You've watched the lovely parties, the car crashes and the snarky wit of Dame Maggie Smith as the Dowager Duchess, now it looks like you'll be able to wear the clothes. Given that we get "Get Downton Style" press releases on an almost daily basis, this seems like a very canny idea from the series producers. “It’s very rare for a British drama to have this much retail potential and merchandising value” executive producer Gareth Neame said.

Downton dress loveliness (via huffingtonpost.co.uk)

Finally, this week's abdication celebrations in the Netherlands were an old school fashion extravaganza, with royals from all over the world gathering to see Queen Beatrix hand the crown to her son, now King Willem Alexander. Here are five brilliant fashion pictures for your royal scrapbook from the occasion. Happy Bank Holiday!

Willem-Alexander's wife, Maxima, on the cover of Vogue Netherlands (via glossynewsstnd.com)

Our Camilla in Bruce Oldfield and Phillip Treacey(via nymag.com)

Queen Beatrix (via nymag.com)

The new King and Queen. She's wearing Jan Taminiau (via dailymail.co.uk)

Sheikh Mozah of Qatar in Valentino

And, those poor Princesses...

(via dailymail.co.uk)